A few words about Thailand
We think there are five main reasons western tourists come to Thailand; the scenery, the culture, the people, the affordability, and the food (but not necessarily in that order). All are spectacular, and Thailand remains one of the few places in the world with all of these attributes, combined with comprehensive transportation and lodging options for travelers in any budget, good medical care (if you need it), and political stability. Thailand is a traveler's paradise. On the one hand, this country does seem to be on the cutting edge of many things (more internet cafes and good public transportation, for example) and the richness of Thai beauty and culture is unsurpassed in our personal travel experience. On the other hand, (outside of Bangkok) it has the unhurried pace of a tropical paradise. To sum it up, we love Thailand.
In Thailand, two tourists can live like a modest King (and Queen) for under $50 USD per day (or $25pp) - including activities such as diving, snorkeling, cooking classes, trekking, VIP bus transportation, eating in restaurants, and staying in modest but clean hotels with en suite toilets. For a less extravagant tour, you can certainly live comfortably on much less. We've met other tourists happily spending a mere $10-$15 per day (and many of our days have been that low as well).
The economy is still on the mend from the crash in the Asian markets last year, and tourist dollars are welcome relief in many areas, as other industries struggle to regain balance during this difficult time. In general, we have been told that most average middle or working class employed Thai people make between 150 (minimum wage) and 500 Baht a day, although of course there are few upwards exceptions to this, and also, sadly, many (including educated and skilled) people not employed or employed and not even making the minimum. This seems quite low by western standards, but remember that the cost of living most places (especially outside of Bangkok) is much lower than Western Europe, Australia, or the US.
However, despite the current economic hardships, Thai people (in general) seem friendly and happy. Rightly named "the land of smiles", Sanuk (fun) is drawn out in many aspects of life. Life seems simpler, but honor, pride, respect, and loyalty seem to be important traits within each area we visit. Anger is seen as a weakness. Loss of self-control is looked down upon. Buddhism is the dominant religion, and many Thai males are expected to serve as a monk at some point in their lives (for as little as three months, or indefinitely), which brings honor to their families. (Women may also become nuns in the Buddhist religion, but we have heard it is not quite as highly regarded socially as monkhood.) Service as a nun or monk teaches self-discipline, kind heartedness, and spirituality. The Buddhist values are apparent in Thai society.
Even if you don't know a word of Thai, if you speak or understand a little English, Thailand is EASY. Thais employed in bus and train stations, travel agencies, guest houses and hotels all seem to know enough English to be able to help you. Hand gestures work when all else fails. Although, be aware that spelling becomes a most creative art with phonetic transliteration (The Thais use a different alphabet than westerners). Therefore, maps and guidebooks can be difficult to follow, as the name of a street, Wat (temple), or guesthouse will most likely be listed in any one of a number of phonetic combination. Even after over a month here, we cannot read even simple Thai signs. We are told there are over 50 letters in the Thai alphabet, and even though they look lovely when placed together, they still don't form words we can recognize. Even so, we manage to navigate ourselves to and around, with the kind help of patient Thais.
We are impressed with how many Thais speak English (how many Americans speak Thai?), but we still giggle at the typos in the English translated menus. Now, we don't hesitate to order "rarely fresh squid" and know that a woman can request "hard boy egg" without damaging her reputation. We can only imagine what horrible mistakes we make when we attempt the few Thai words we know.
We are sometimes shocked by the lack of safety standards in some forms of transportation, hotels and especially boats. For example, 1 life vest for every dozen or so passengers seems like a luxury, if it is even available, and we are yet to see a fire escape (or alarm!) on a multi-story guesthouse. Four people can and often do fit on a moped, on the highway, and without helmets. We are used to seeing monks on mopeds, sitting side-saddle on the back, and we are used to cows and water buffalo crossing highways at their leisure. A mere honk of the horn gives any driver license to pass in opposing traffic, and everyone (monks and water buffalo included) just move onto the shoulder!
Bangkok
To say the least, getting to Bangkok from Auckland was a journey in itself. We made a mistake calculating time zones, and what we thought was going to be a 3-hour layover in Australia was actually 7 hours. Since we didn't bother to get an Australian Visa, we could not leave Sydney's international terminal. Fortunately for us, the lady at United's "Red Carpet Room" (a lounge for business class passengers, or those with a paid membership)sympathized with us (after some begging and whining on our part) and said she was going on a break and she never saw us. Big score for the budget travelers! We never appreciated luxury so much.
We arrived in Bangkok around midnight on March 15th. We headed directly to the famous backpacker ghetto, Khao San Road. (We were told that this is not always easy to do. Many private taxi drivers will take naive and disoriented looking backpackers to a destination other than what they have requested, in order to gain commissions on overpriced and undesirable hotels). We wanted to avoid this, so splurged on the official airport taxi (a whopping 650Bhat) and had a trouble-free and very comfortable ride in an air-conditioned brand-new Mercedes. When we arrived on Khao San Road after midnight, the street was packed with partying international backpackers, food vendors, and souvenir hawkers. Note: Since then, we've taken many private taxis, and have not had this trouble. We have found the traffic in Bangkok to be a little frightening at times, but most of the Taxi drivers are friendly, usually a little bilingual (a little English if not several other languages) and responsive to fair and persistent bargaining. Fortunately for us, the third guesthouse we tried (The Nana) had a mean but sufficient room on the 5th floor (no lift) with A/C, a small balcony and private bathroom. We paid 600 Baht, or about $14 USD. This was the most expensive room we've stayed in in Thailand, and the least charming. (You can find dorm-style accommodations on Khao San road for about 100 Baht, but we did not bother, since we were not staying long.) Khao San Road is only about 2-3 blocks long, but packs a lot of action. It's lined with bars, restaurants, travel agencies, cheap guesthouses, tourist shops, massage parlors, and a host of street vendors specializing in bootleg cassette tapes and clothing items, and possibly illegal substances, even though the police station is located at the end of the road.
For our first day, we took a few tuk-tuks around town, fearing for our lives as the small, noisy vehicle maneuvered through heavy and fast traffic, getting sideways on corners, and nearly taking out a few food stalls. However, we found a more agreeable means of transportation on the canal - a long-tail boat (200 Baht for one hour). We spent hours just walking through the various open-air markets, a little overwhelmed, but very excited to be in Thailand!. Our good friend Alie met us the evening of the 16th, and after another day sightseeing (The very impressive Grand Palace) and one more night at the Nana, we all decided to head down to Koh Tao, an island in the scenic South.
Koh Tao
We caught an overnight VIP government bus from Bangkok's Southern Bus Terminal to Chumphon (10pm - 4am), where we waited in a travel agency for the ferry to Koh Tao (7:30am). By 11am the next day, we were all comfortably kicking back on the beach at Ban's Diving Resort. We ended up staying on Koh Tao 11 days at Ban's Diving Resort. Cara got her Open Water Certification (finally), Joe got his Advanced Open Water, and Alie was a diving maniac, logged 18 dives, got her Advanced OW and also Rescue diver. Joe logged 9 dives and Cara 6. We figured that was enough to get our fix, and supplemented our entertainment agenda with snorkeling, feeding multicolored frenzied fish bananas (and occasionally our own fingertips), and exploring the lush island by moped.
The coral and other sea life was plentiful and amazing, and Cara's Swedish Padi instructor, Ola, taught a method of "scuba nirvana " that really calmed her underwater. Those of you who know Cara might remember she is usually terrified of swimming in the ocean (some weird phobia she has). However, on Koh Tao, she fearlessly drifted through schools of barracuda, teased aggressive trigger fish, and even did a small cave swim-through. Cara missed night diving, but Joe and Alie can testify that it was amazing. When you shine a torch on the fish, they become clear targets for the barracuda which typically feed at night. It's kind of a death sentence for the fish, but the barracuda need to eat also! Alie went off on her own one evening to go snorkeling with feeding sharks, and has promised to to email us her impressions so we can post them!
We never wanted to leave Koh Tao, but were curious to see other parts of Thailand. We decided to take a night ferry to Surat Thani. Our hotel told us that the ferry was a comfortable overnight journey. We had in our minds that we might have private beds. When we arrived at the dock, we found that the vessel was the size of a large fishing boat, and the sleeping accommodation consisted of one crowded room with a foam pad that covered the floor. Some people who arrived early were able to stake out enough floorspace in order to stretch out and sleep, however, we weren't expecting the style of accommodation, arrived at the last minute, and found ourselves crammed into a small space barely big enough for our packs, let alone our bodies. Kind Joe slept outside on the deck to free up some leg space for his fiance. Who says chivalry is dead!
Krabi and surrounding area
We arrived in Krabi during our third week in Thailand. While most travelers pass through on their way to Phuket, Rai Lai, or other beach destinations, we decided to spend a night in the city, to see what it was like. Alie and Cara had a Thai massage in what turned out to be a brothel downtown, while Joe waited out a rainstorm on the balcony of our charming 4 dollar-a night guesthouse.
We went to the most amazing Wat, a monastery nestled in a valley between limestone cliffs. Individual temples were along the cliffs, set back in caves. It was well worth the exertion for the step back in time. It was not crowded at all, and the couple of dozen monks scurrying about outnumbered the tourists. However, the long tail monkeys outnumbered both the monks and the tourists. Little bald nuns shot the monkeys with slingshots to keep them away from the refreshment stands. There was another small hike, up about 1,500 stairs to the top of the limestone cliffs, to an area named "Buddha's Footprint". This hike will reward you with great views of the surrounding area, but we missed it, as it started raining and with the clouds we would not have been able to see anything, anyway.
We also took a long-tail boat to Rai Lay, a nearby beach peninsula inside a Thai National Park. The peninsula includes three main beach areas, each with privately run bungalows and restaurants. We stayed overnight on the least scenic, but also less expensive beach, East Rai Lay (turns to mud flats at low tide). We were still able to spend our time at the nearby and more upscale West Rai Lay beach, and the very expensive (western resort pricing), but most beautiful Hat Phra Nang. Besides sunbathing, swimming, snorkeling, cruising the bay in long tail boats, the cliffs surrounding the beaches offer superb rock climbing opportunities. Joe and Alie tried their hand at climbing in a half-day class that just about knocked them flat, but was tons of fun. In addition, we all had fun with some moderate spelunking, since the limestone cliffs are riddled with caves. We missed the hike to a hidden lagoon, in between East Rai Lay and Hat Phra Nang, as we only stayed one evening.
Our bungalows on East Rai Lay (we stayed at The "Ya Ya"), were fun and funky in atmosphere and architecture. However, they were quite shabbily built and totally infested with critters.... Alie killed about seven huge cockroaches inside an hour, before she gave up and went to sleep, to the sounds of the Thai pop band playing late in the night at the bar next door. Joe and I had to abandon our porch due to the carpenter ants. However, the Ya ya does attract many backpackers and rock climbers due to its swiss-family-robinson look, lively bar scene, and excellent coffee (not to mention cheapest accommodation prices on the peninsula.)
Chiang Mai
I am very proud of our journey, as we managed to avoid travel agencies the whole way. After our first six hours (a local bus from Krabi back to Surrat Thani), we were stranded, it seemed like we'd have to book through a travel agency. All the agencies ("No, there is no public bus" "No, the public bus and train all booked". "No, there is no bus, and it is not comfortable" No, there is no train from Surrat Thani") We knew there was a bus station, with many buses, which were comfortable, and not booked. However, we still did not know how to get to the station! When we finally made it there, I felt as if I had accomplished some great feat. (If you are going to be spending 30 hours on a bus, you want a really good one. The tourist agencies are not well regulated, so while some I'm sure are very good, others often do not deliver what they have promised.
Chiang Mai is the second largest city in Thailand, the capital of the Chiang Mai province, in the North of Thailand. This is the most popular tourist center for arranging trekking tours, taking Thai cooking classes, massage classes, and yoga. Chiang Mai is also known for its large and quite impressive transvestite population and, sadly, an active Opium trade. Shopping in Chiang Mai is fantastic - the guidebooks claim it is better than Bangkok, and we agree. The North is known for rich crafts, many tailors, and the popular night bazaar is a lively and colorful place to spend many evenings. The nightlife is also rich (but not too cheap). Our favorite bar, near the Thae Phae gate was "The Public House". For a small bar, it was always lively, and hosted an open jam session nightly, and good drink specials. Joe got his fix drumming with the band several evenings in a row.
Before Alie left us to return to the states and graduate school, the three of us went on a fantastic three-day, two-night trek in the Pai province (Northwest of Chaing Mai). We booked through Panda Tours, and highly recommend them. We went on a "non-touristed" trek (all the agencies boast this), but were surprised that they delivered beyond our expectations. We hiked through the devastated remains of jungle area (due to the slash-and burn technique employed by the hill tribe farmers and opium growers), rode elephants through lush misty jungle, crossed many rivers on precarious bamboo "bridges", and spent 3 hours poling downstream on a bamboo raft. Our tour guide, Sung, sparked our active imaginations entertaining us in the evenings with colorful tales of "treks gone bad".
Joe and I spent nearly two weeks in Chaing Mai, and considered staying there even longer to take Thai classes, or possibly teach English. ...
Chiang Khong (The Thai/Lao border in Northern Thailand)
Most people cruise quickly through this small, border town on their way overland from the North of Thailand to the North of Laos. We arrived near the end of Songkran - the annual water festival that marks the Thai new year. We had hoped to get a same-day or next-day Lao visa, but were not able to, due to the holiday (Lao immigration was closed). We wound up making friends with several locals, and had more fun in Chiang Khong than any other single place in Thailand.
We were lucky not only to catch Songkran, but also the annual Giant Catfish fishing festival (being filmed by Discovery Channel while we were there!) Because of our new Thai friends, we were able to ride in the fishing boat parade on the VIP cruise boat with the "mayor" of Chiang Khong, and other important locals.
At closer examination, this town offers a lot for the tourist looking for a more 'untouristed' Northern Thailand experience, since most travelers only stay one or two nights, if any, and the main tourist pushes are to get you a visa or to put you up for a night. Everything else, you are pleasantly on your own!
We'd like to give a strong "plug" a couple of businesses we found immeasurably helpful during our stay, and hope you patronize them if doing the overland Northern Thailand to Laos Route:
Travel Agencies:
Ms. Apple at Traveler's corner is the best travel agent in town, helpful and kind (and honest) and way better and more personal than the larger and somewhat unpleasant "Anne Tour" that our guidebook recommended. Her English is excellent, which really helps. If we had used Miss Apple's services, we would have saved money, and obtained our visa earlier, and with less hassle. Traveler's Corner is stocked with up-to-date information on Laos, and you are welcome to peruse for free. She's got fair prices, a good library exchange, guidebooks for sale, bicycles for rent, as well as many other Laos-bound traveler's supplies (ear plugs for the speed boat, mosquito nets, etc.) She can also help recommend a guesthouse or home stay if you are feeling frustrated with the choices of guest houses. (There are quite a lot, new ones springing up all the time, and they vary in quality and price).
Food/Drinks & Nightlife:
Okay, there isn't much nightlife in Chiang Khong, but you can certainly create your own. We found a small, unnamed and out-of-the way store/restaurant that you MUST NOT MISS if you pass through. This is not a tourist shop, and the prices reflect true local prices (less than half of what you will be charged in town). We may be biased (and we are, because we really liked the proprietors), but can safely say their traditional food surpassed any of the more "convenient" restaurants downtown (although they may have a limited menu). One important note, they charge foreigners "local" prices not only for food, but also for beer (also about half what the restaurant in town charge). In addition, the owners (Mr. Bob and Ms. A) have a selection of good American movies that you can watch on the TV/VCR in the shop. Our last night in town, we rounded up a few other travelers from our guest house, headed down to Mr. Bob's and had the best and cheapest evening, underneath the blinking Christmas lights and surrounded by friendly locals.
To reach the store, walk approximately 300 meters from the Bus station (away from the harbor and travel agencies) on the main street (the store will be on your left). You will recognize it by the black and white African-looking striped decoration, and it is directly across from a petrol station. For a lively evening, grab a few other tourists from your guest house and go! If you need help finding it, ask Ms. Apple at Traveler's corner, or a young Tuk-Tuk driver named Mr. Lee. (Not all the tuk-tuk drivers will know what you are talking about, as the shop does not currently have a name, and it is not a common destination for tourists). If you are lucky enough to find the shop, tell Mr. Bob and Ms. A that Joe and Cara send their love!
Mr. Bob is an excellent and talented artist / painter, the former creative director of an advertising agency in Bangkok (before the economy turned sour). He's got some fantastic plans drawn up for a future guesthouse he wants to build on his hillside property. Don't be put off by the fact that yes, he's probably looking for investors, because he and his family are generous, kind, honest and warm whether you are a perspective investor or not. For example, they invited us to their family's Songkran dinner, introduced us to all their friends, and let us hang out with them constantly even after we told them we were not investors. They treated us like family throughout our stay, even driving us back to our guest house themselves one evening when the tuk-tuks wanted extortionist prices. When they thought we were to be leaving Laos, they waited for us by the immigration office for two hours, in order to wish us good-bye.
Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Sunday, June 8, 2008
Thailand Trip: Phuket
After dinner we went by Tuk Tuk to the night market. This is always great fun to do - the drivers go so fast, certainly not a ride for the faint hearted; the cost was 30 Baht, just under $1. The night market in Chiang Mai was much bigger and more varied than the one in Bangkok. We got all the shopping here that we had been looking for.
We hailed a Tuk Tuk to take us back to the Empress Hotel. The driver wanted to charge us 50 Baht, but we laughted and said "No way - 30 Baht" he nodded, it was a good try.
We left the next day for a long drive to Mae Hong Sorn. First stop is the elephant camp. We bought a huge bunch of bananas to feed to the elephants. Everywhere we looked there were elephants trying to grab the bananas. If you stood still for long a trunk came over your shoulder seeking out whatever goodies you might have. The elephants here have the tourist well trained. I saw several people have a whole bunch of 20 or more bananas whisked out of their hands by a grey trunk.
We watched the elephants having a bath in the river, they just loved it. The round balls of dung that the elephants were discharging were being collected by young girls with huge baskets standing down river!
We sat and watched the elephant show. It was great fun. Elephants pulling and stacking huge tree trunks, and playing mouth organs. It was obvious that the relationship they have with their mahouts is excellent.
We then drove to the orchid farm. We were all given an orchid to pin on our shirts when we arrived. There were some beautiful coloured orchids. There was also a butterfly farm which we went into. It was very hot and in the butterfly house, humid too. We were glad to buy a cold drink and sit in the shade for a while.
We learnt a bit about orchids. There about 25,000 species of orchid in the world. 1000 species in Thailand and 500 species in Chiang Mai alone. An orchid plant lives for about 15 years, however we were told it could live longer depending on its care.
We then had a long drive through very steep and winding mountain roads, round hairpin bend after hairpin bend, until we stopped for a picnic lunch. We stopped in a lovely spot. Sitting under straw roofed picnic umbrellas with cows grazing round us, the sound of tinkling cow bells was most relaxing.
All too soon we were under way again. We again wound our way up and down these steep hills and hairpin bends. We saw several forest fires; some were burning right to the edge of the road.
We had another much needed break when we visited a hill tribe. These people were not that primitive, they had water and electricity laid on to the village. This tribe used to grow opium but the government are now teaching them other farming skills like growing rice, rearing chickens, ducks and pigs. We wondered how many of the villagers still grew opium up in the hills away from the prying eyes of the officials. By the look of some of the old women, we thought that quite possible.
We were all getting hot, tired and dusty. The last stop on route was a very pretty riverside park with a cave that had quite large fish in. Nobody seems to know how deep or how far the cave goes, but it is a very pretty and refreshing place. There was an old water wheel there that interested Ralph. It was pulling up water from the river and putting the water back in the river! seemed pretty pointless to me!
We eventually arrived at Mae Hong Sorn and are booked into the Tara Hotel. After dinner it was an early night. We were all tired after today's trek throuugh the mountains.
After a good nights sleep our first visit was a short ride to the river where we got into the long tailed boats for about a half an hour's trip up river to the village of the Karen people. The boats are great fun but not too comfortable. It was a beautiful ride up the river with thick jungle on either side. The lack of any wildlife in a jungle like this is strange. Otto said that the people had killed all the animals, even the rabbits. They had also, in the space of only 50 years, cut down all the teak forests and now had to import the teak they required from Burma.
We arrived at the banks of the river where the Karen tribe live. These people came over the Burmese border in 1991 to escape the slavery in Burma. They were farmers in Burma but the Thai government have let them stay but won't let them start farming. The only money they get to live on comes from tourists like us. The Burmese border is only three miles away up river. The women of this tribe wear their wealth around their necks as brass bangles. They start wearing these bands as young as eight years old.
It looks very uncomfortable, they never take them off. We had all bought sweets for the children. The Karen people seem happy, clean and well fed; they have charm and dignity too. The children have a nice school where they go every day, although not today as it's Saturday. We stopped at the village for about half an hour and then boarded the boats and went back down river alighting at the elephant camp.
After having a drink, feeding the elephants with the bananas we had bought, we mounted our elephants and off we went for an elephant trek through the jungle.
We started off going down a very steep bank into the river. It was a bit scary as the elephant went down the very steep bank. It was a lovely ride. Our elephant waded through streams and up jungle paths. It was great fun, and being so high up on elephant back you can see everything so well.
After lunch we had the afternoon to relax. We went and spent the afternoon by the pool.
After a good nights sleep we collected our picnic boxes and started on the long trek back through the mountains.
We stopped at a big cave. We had to drive along dirt tracks to the place where the cave was. It was a huge cave with a river running through it, and it had stalactites and stalagmites. We had an option to go and see some cave paintings but it meant climbing up some very steep precarious looking steps. We decided not to go. The others in the group disappeared up into the roof of the cave, the guides were carrying lanterns and we watched the lights from the lanterns slowly disappear.
It was very hot and humid in the cave. We were offered a ride on a raft through the cave but apparently it was a long walk back once you got to the other side, so we declined.
When the group came back they said how difficult they found it as the steps were very steep and tall and several of the girls said their calf muscles were really aching, I'm glad we stayed behind.
It was a lovely spot with a pretty river, we talked about having our picnic lunch here but it was too early for lunch.
We stopped about an hour later on top of a hill for our picnic. The hotel had packed a very good picnic box we had chicken pieces, salad, rolls and a drink all very welcome and appetising.
We arrived back at Chiang Mai just after 5pm. After sorting out our cases we went off to the airport for our flight back to Bangkok.
After a short flight we arrived back at Bangkok and got transferred to the Sheraton Hotel.
After an overnight stop at the Sheraton we catch a flight the next afternoon for Phuket. We are staying at the Dusit Laguna.
Phuket lies in the Andaman Sea off the southwest coast of Thailand, and is linked to the mainland by a short bridge. It owes its wealth to rubber, tin and tourism.
We came to Phuket to relax after our tour round Thailand. There is a super swimming pool here, there are massage girls on the beach and the grounds of the hotel are lovely. It is nice to see and hear birds again. There is a lot of surf pounding onto the beach. There are lots of tall trees and grass and lots of shade to lay in. We reckon we can tolerate this for a week!
It is very hot in Phuket but thankfully, we have lost the high humidity that we had in Bangkok.
We spent a relaxing day by the pool which is the best we have ever seen. This evening there was a cabaret at the poolside. This was very colourful, fun and full of life.
The following day the sea had calmed down and the water sports were active. There is a choice of sailing, parascending, sail boarding and pedaloes.
I had a massage on the beach. I can't say I enjoyed having a massage in public, but when in Rome........ The masseuse's name is Tuk Tuk and she was very good. You can also have a manicure or pedicure which I may have tomorrow.
There are beautiful sunsets here. When we retired to bed the Benny Hill show was on T.V. we wondered what the Thais make of Benny Hill!
The following morning at breakfast we marvel at the amount the Japanese can eat. I really don't know; meat, noodles, fruit, cornflakes, yoghurt, porridge and a sweet cake - I would be sick if I ate that lot for breakfast. And they are all as skinny as pipe cleaners, there is no justice!!
We are taking a trip today to the James Bond Island. Our first stop is to a rubber plantation. This was really interesting. We were shown how the trees are tapped. I was surprised on how quickly the white rubber liquid started pouring out straight away. It was collected in a half coconut bowl. It only takes about half an hour for the rubber liquid to set. It is then put through what looked exactly like an old fashioned mangle to get out the water. It is put through the mangle several times until it is a flat sheet about 1/4 inch thick.
Away from the coast it is really hot and humid. After a short drive we boarded our long tailed boats and off we went through the mangrove swamps, it was like being back in Florida.
We stopped at a fishing village on stilts on the water. It was a fish farm and it smelt like it! There were lots of little shops, but we were rushed through these to see a rather seedy and pretty boring mosque. We were then rushed back to our boats. Why we stopped here I know not! It would have been much more interesting to learn something of the fish farming techniques.
We left the fish farm and had a super cruise through wonderful island scenery. We went through a cave with stalactites and stalagmites and eventually arrived at James Bond Island. The scenery was spectacular. As we alighted on the sandy beach I could almost here the dwarf in 'The Man with the Golden Gun' saying "Welcome, Mr. Bond".
The little island was unknown until the film company used it for the film; it is now a popular tourist stop. It is a small narrow island, only about 100ft wide.
Back into our long tailed boats for another very interesting and spectacular ride back to our starting point which was about ten miles from the island.
We spent a couple of days just enjoying the pool, the food, and the evening entertainment.
We took a trip to the pearl farm. We went by boat to Pearl Island. We had about an hour's talk on the culture of pearls. It was a very interesting and amusing talk. He said pearls were like babies, you implant the oyster and you never know what will appear - but whatever it is, you love it!
We saw the biggest pearl in the world. It had travelled the world on show but was now back at the island where it had been found. It was big, mis-shapen and I thought very ugly, but priceless, apparently.
We were shown how half pearls were made by implanting a half circle of plastic into the oyster and the oyster then makes a protective coating of pearl round it. It can't reject it, as it is stuck inside the shell with glue. They use the half pearls for earrings and pendants, after first filling the inside with mother of pearl. We had a very good man talking to us he was clear and humorous and made sure everyone saw and photographed everything he showed us. He told us that there are only 20 experienced pearl culturers in the world. All the best pearls come from the South China sea area, and it takes 15 years to learn how to farm pearls.
We then enjoyed a Thai lunch in a big open restaurant with a view of palm trees and the sea in the background.
We then went to the beach and swam in the sea. There was quite a strong current but not dangerously so. I don't normally like swimming in the sea but this swim was great and I will always remember it. It is how I'd imagined a tropical island to be. There were good fresh water showers to get rid of the salt.
This evening we took a Tuk Tuk to the Sheraton Hotel. There is a very good system here, free transport to several hotels where you can use your room number and the bill will be debited to your account. When we got back to our hotel the poolside entertainment tonight was Thai martial arts, a bit slow and tame we thought!
There was a beautiful sunset tonight, a fitting end to a great holiday.
Our last day in Phuket. We generally lazed around As we left for the airport the Kuoni rep gave me a box of orchids as a going away present which was a nice touch.
We flew home by Emirate Airways and were not impressed with this airline. The check-in system was a disgrace, the worst we have ever encountered.
We loved Thailand, especially the elepants. Once we had left Bangkok and went up country we lost the humidity which Ralph and I hate.
We hailed a Tuk Tuk to take us back to the Empress Hotel. The driver wanted to charge us 50 Baht, but we laughted and said "No way - 30 Baht" he nodded, it was a good try.
We left the next day for a long drive to Mae Hong Sorn. First stop is the elephant camp. We bought a huge bunch of bananas to feed to the elephants. Everywhere we looked there were elephants trying to grab the bananas. If you stood still for long a trunk came over your shoulder seeking out whatever goodies you might have. The elephants here have the tourist well trained. I saw several people have a whole bunch of 20 or more bananas whisked out of their hands by a grey trunk.
We watched the elephants having a bath in the river, they just loved it. The round balls of dung that the elephants were discharging were being collected by young girls with huge baskets standing down river!
We sat and watched the elephant show. It was great fun. Elephants pulling and stacking huge tree trunks, and playing mouth organs. It was obvious that the relationship they have with their mahouts is excellent.
We then drove to the orchid farm. We were all given an orchid to pin on our shirts when we arrived. There were some beautiful coloured orchids. There was also a butterfly farm which we went into. It was very hot and in the butterfly house, humid too. We were glad to buy a cold drink and sit in the shade for a while.
We learnt a bit about orchids. There about 25,000 species of orchid in the world. 1000 species in Thailand and 500 species in Chiang Mai alone. An orchid plant lives for about 15 years, however we were told it could live longer depending on its care.
We then had a long drive through very steep and winding mountain roads, round hairpin bend after hairpin bend, until we stopped for a picnic lunch. We stopped in a lovely spot. Sitting under straw roofed picnic umbrellas with cows grazing round us, the sound of tinkling cow bells was most relaxing.
All too soon we were under way again. We again wound our way up and down these steep hills and hairpin bends. We saw several forest fires; some were burning right to the edge of the road.
We had another much needed break when we visited a hill tribe. These people were not that primitive, they had water and electricity laid on to the village. This tribe used to grow opium but the government are now teaching them other farming skills like growing rice, rearing chickens, ducks and pigs. We wondered how many of the villagers still grew opium up in the hills away from the prying eyes of the officials. By the look of some of the old women, we thought that quite possible.
We were all getting hot, tired and dusty. The last stop on route was a very pretty riverside park with a cave that had quite large fish in. Nobody seems to know how deep or how far the cave goes, but it is a very pretty and refreshing place. There was an old water wheel there that interested Ralph. It was pulling up water from the river and putting the water back in the river! seemed pretty pointless to me!
We eventually arrived at Mae Hong Sorn and are booked into the Tara Hotel. After dinner it was an early night. We were all tired after today's trek throuugh the mountains.
After a good nights sleep our first visit was a short ride to the river where we got into the long tailed boats for about a half an hour's trip up river to the village of the Karen people. The boats are great fun but not too comfortable. It was a beautiful ride up the river with thick jungle on either side. The lack of any wildlife in a jungle like this is strange. Otto said that the people had killed all the animals, even the rabbits. They had also, in the space of only 50 years, cut down all the teak forests and now had to import the teak they required from Burma.
We arrived at the banks of the river where the Karen tribe live. These people came over the Burmese border in 1991 to escape the slavery in Burma. They were farmers in Burma but the Thai government have let them stay but won't let them start farming. The only money they get to live on comes from tourists like us. The Burmese border is only three miles away up river. The women of this tribe wear their wealth around their necks as brass bangles. They start wearing these bands as young as eight years old.
It looks very uncomfortable, they never take them off. We had all bought sweets for the children. The Karen people seem happy, clean and well fed; they have charm and dignity too. The children have a nice school where they go every day, although not today as it's Saturday. We stopped at the village for about half an hour and then boarded the boats and went back down river alighting at the elephant camp.
After having a drink, feeding the elephants with the bananas we had bought, we mounted our elephants and off we went for an elephant trek through the jungle.
We started off going down a very steep bank into the river. It was a bit scary as the elephant went down the very steep bank. It was a lovely ride. Our elephant waded through streams and up jungle paths. It was great fun, and being so high up on elephant back you can see everything so well.
After lunch we had the afternoon to relax. We went and spent the afternoon by the pool.
After a good nights sleep we collected our picnic boxes and started on the long trek back through the mountains.
We stopped at a big cave. We had to drive along dirt tracks to the place where the cave was. It was a huge cave with a river running through it, and it had stalactites and stalagmites. We had an option to go and see some cave paintings but it meant climbing up some very steep precarious looking steps. We decided not to go. The others in the group disappeared up into the roof of the cave, the guides were carrying lanterns and we watched the lights from the lanterns slowly disappear.
It was very hot and humid in the cave. We were offered a ride on a raft through the cave but apparently it was a long walk back once you got to the other side, so we declined.
When the group came back they said how difficult they found it as the steps were very steep and tall and several of the girls said their calf muscles were really aching, I'm glad we stayed behind.
It was a lovely spot with a pretty river, we talked about having our picnic lunch here but it was too early for lunch.
We stopped about an hour later on top of a hill for our picnic. The hotel had packed a very good picnic box we had chicken pieces, salad, rolls and a drink all very welcome and appetising.
We arrived back at Chiang Mai just after 5pm. After sorting out our cases we went off to the airport for our flight back to Bangkok.
After a short flight we arrived back at Bangkok and got transferred to the Sheraton Hotel.
After an overnight stop at the Sheraton we catch a flight the next afternoon for Phuket. We are staying at the Dusit Laguna.
Phuket lies in the Andaman Sea off the southwest coast of Thailand, and is linked to the mainland by a short bridge. It owes its wealth to rubber, tin and tourism.
We came to Phuket to relax after our tour round Thailand. There is a super swimming pool here, there are massage girls on the beach and the grounds of the hotel are lovely. It is nice to see and hear birds again. There is a lot of surf pounding onto the beach. There are lots of tall trees and grass and lots of shade to lay in. We reckon we can tolerate this for a week!
It is very hot in Phuket but thankfully, we have lost the high humidity that we had in Bangkok.
We spent a relaxing day by the pool which is the best we have ever seen. This evening there was a cabaret at the poolside. This was very colourful, fun and full of life.
The following day the sea had calmed down and the water sports were active. There is a choice of sailing, parascending, sail boarding and pedaloes.
I had a massage on the beach. I can't say I enjoyed having a massage in public, but when in Rome........ The masseuse's name is Tuk Tuk and she was very good. You can also have a manicure or pedicure which I may have tomorrow.
There are beautiful sunsets here. When we retired to bed the Benny Hill show was on T.V. we wondered what the Thais make of Benny Hill!
The following morning at breakfast we marvel at the amount the Japanese can eat. I really don't know; meat, noodles, fruit, cornflakes, yoghurt, porridge and a sweet cake - I would be sick if I ate that lot for breakfast. And they are all as skinny as pipe cleaners, there is no justice!!
We are taking a trip today to the James Bond Island. Our first stop is to a rubber plantation. This was really interesting. We were shown how the trees are tapped. I was surprised on how quickly the white rubber liquid started pouring out straight away. It was collected in a half coconut bowl. It only takes about half an hour for the rubber liquid to set. It is then put through what looked exactly like an old fashioned mangle to get out the water. It is put through the mangle several times until it is a flat sheet about 1/4 inch thick.
Away from the coast it is really hot and humid. After a short drive we boarded our long tailed boats and off we went through the mangrove swamps, it was like being back in Florida.
We stopped at a fishing village on stilts on the water. It was a fish farm and it smelt like it! There were lots of little shops, but we were rushed through these to see a rather seedy and pretty boring mosque. We were then rushed back to our boats. Why we stopped here I know not! It would have been much more interesting to learn something of the fish farming techniques.
We left the fish farm and had a super cruise through wonderful island scenery. We went through a cave with stalactites and stalagmites and eventually arrived at James Bond Island. The scenery was spectacular. As we alighted on the sandy beach I could almost here the dwarf in 'The Man with the Golden Gun' saying "Welcome, Mr. Bond".
The little island was unknown until the film company used it for the film; it is now a popular tourist stop. It is a small narrow island, only about 100ft wide.
Back into our long tailed boats for another very interesting and spectacular ride back to our starting point which was about ten miles from the island.
We spent a couple of days just enjoying the pool, the food, and the evening entertainment.
We took a trip to the pearl farm. We went by boat to Pearl Island. We had about an hour's talk on the culture of pearls. It was a very interesting and amusing talk. He said pearls were like babies, you implant the oyster and you never know what will appear - but whatever it is, you love it!
We saw the biggest pearl in the world. It had travelled the world on show but was now back at the island where it had been found. It was big, mis-shapen and I thought very ugly, but priceless, apparently.
We were shown how half pearls were made by implanting a half circle of plastic into the oyster and the oyster then makes a protective coating of pearl round it. It can't reject it, as it is stuck inside the shell with glue. They use the half pearls for earrings and pendants, after first filling the inside with mother of pearl. We had a very good man talking to us he was clear and humorous and made sure everyone saw and photographed everything he showed us. He told us that there are only 20 experienced pearl culturers in the world. All the best pearls come from the South China sea area, and it takes 15 years to learn how to farm pearls.
We then enjoyed a Thai lunch in a big open restaurant with a view of palm trees and the sea in the background.
We then went to the beach and swam in the sea. There was quite a strong current but not dangerously so. I don't normally like swimming in the sea but this swim was great and I will always remember it. It is how I'd imagined a tropical island to be. There were good fresh water showers to get rid of the salt.
This evening we took a Tuk Tuk to the Sheraton Hotel. There is a very good system here, free transport to several hotels where you can use your room number and the bill will be debited to your account. When we got back to our hotel the poolside entertainment tonight was Thai martial arts, a bit slow and tame we thought!
There was a beautiful sunset tonight, a fitting end to a great holiday.
Our last day in Phuket. We generally lazed around As we left for the airport the Kuoni rep gave me a box of orchids as a going away present which was a nice touch.
We flew home by Emirate Airways and were not impressed with this airline. The check-in system was a disgrace, the worst we have ever encountered.
We loved Thailand, especially the elepants. Once we had left Bangkok and went up country we lost the humidity which Ralph and I hate.
Thailand Trip: Chiang Mai
We then stopped at another village. We had to walk along a hot dusty road to get there as the coach couldn't drive along the narrow track. There was a different tribe here at this village. These people were very colourful. They were selling lots of brightly coloured dolls and cushion covers they had made. There are about 20 different tribes that live in the north of Thailand
We stopped for lunch at a nice cool restaurant, the restaurant was on a river with buffaloes grazing by the side of the water. We ate sticky rice, lots of dishes, all tasting great.
After lunch we drove to the border between Burma and Thailand. Our guide Otto told us that if you go to the loo behind a bush here, if you're a man you are said to be "shooting the rabbit." At least that's what it sounded like, though by common consent we are sure he meant "shooting the rapids." A lady is said to be "picking the flowers."
Thai pronunciation does sometimes need a bit of interpretation. One that really puzzled us for some time was when Otto told us that they use Tamarind pods for "cleaning the sewer." Why on earth would they want to do that we wondered. It was only some time later that we figured he meant "cleaning the silver."
He told us that all 18 year old boys are liable for army service, but that the army doesn't want all the boys. So... when they are of age, they go down to their local police station where there is a jar full of black and white beans. They plunge their hand in and pull out a bean; if it's black they serve in the army; if it's white, they don't. The number of black beans in the jar is the number of young men that they need in the army from that area. Otto got a white bean. Seems like a good fair way to do it to me.
When we got back to the hotel I phoned for a massage. "How many masseurs did madam require?" "Only one, thank you"; the mind boggles!! When she came she used her feet and elbows and my back and neck didn't feel any better. Definitely not as good as Onee in Bangkok.
Every night when we go to bed a weather forecast for the following day is left on our pillow. I thought it was only the British that were that interested in the weather!
The following morning we left to drive to Chiang Mai. We ground our way up and down the hills with the scenery getting pretty monotonous. We stopped after a couple of hours at some hot springs. The hot springs consisted of a shallow well gently bubbling. We were told that we could boil eggs if we wanted, none of us wanted to boil and egg, and we all felt that as hot springs go this one was a bit tepid.
Along the road at different intervals are shrines to the various gods. When our coach driver passes a special shrine, special to him that is, he sounded his horn three times as a sign of respect.
We arrived at Chiang Mai at lunch time. Chiang Mai is the largest northern town and the second largest town in Thailand. Chiang Mai is about 435 miles north of Bangkok. The present city surrounded by the moat and wall, dates from 1296. Chiang means town and Mai means new. It's not so new now, but at least it's newer than Chiang Rai, which was the original northern capital.
We are staying at the Empress Hotel for the next two nights. After settling in we went and had a swim which was very refreshing.
We ate out tonight sitting on cushions. It was pretty uncomfortable. We ate with our fingers, and the food was very tasty. Pork scratchings, chicken, banana all deep fried. While we ate we watched a display of Thai dancing. It wasn't easy trying to eat, sitting on the floor while trying to watch the stage show, and take photographs! Thai dancing isn't very exciting to watch, but it is quite colourful. The candle dance was very good and looked most effective.
We had to take off our shoes when we went in to eat so after dinner we found our shoes, put them back on and went into another building to watch another culture show. This time the dancers came from the hill tribes. We enjoyed two of the dances, one was a man dressed in the feathers of a peacock, and the other was the rice dance.
On our pillow tonight is an orchid with a note which says 'Goodnight, have a pleasant sleep'.
The next morning we visited the oldest temple in Thailand called Doi Suthep. We wound up and up a very steep mountain deeply wooded on one side and a high cliff on the other side. When we got to the top we had a choice of walking up 306 steps, or going up by funicular railway; needless to say we chose the latter. There is a panoramic view of Chiang Mai from here.
Doi Suthep, is the oldest temple and is very beautiful and peaceful. We were glad we had come here. I bought a lotus flower, a candle, a joss stick and some gold leaf. I put everything by a statue, except the gold leaf which I shall take home.
Once a year, in May, all the people in the town of Chiang Mai walk up the mountain to the temple. It takes about six hours to walk up the steep road. Otto told us it is like a great big carnival with singing and dancing and everyone is in a happy party mood.
Many stories surround the monastery. One relates how a white elephant carrying a Buddha relic was allowed to wander about Chiang Mai. Where it stopped, at the foot of Doi Suthep, a temple was built. A pagoda covered in gold tiles houses the relic. The monastery was completed in 1383.
Before we went to lunch we visited the first of many of the craft factories that Chiang Mai is famous for. This one was for umbrella making. They make both umbrellas and fans here both in silk and cotton.
As we went in a pretty lady took my small camera and in only a couple of minutes she had painted a butterfly on it. I think the paint is probably enamel. It looks beautiful and I was really pleased. Lots of the group had different things painted on their camera bags, cameras, handbags and purses. We were shown how they make the umbrellas and fans. It was a super place to visit, very colourful.
After lunch we did the round of more craft centres. At the silk factory we were all given a little pink silk rose to pin on our shirts. This factory was particularly interesting as we saw the silk worms munching their mulberry leaves and we were shown how they extract the silk from the chrysalises.
There were lots of girls working on the looms making silk material out of brightly coloured silks. We were also shown into the showroom. This is the silk factory where Princess Diana came and got some silk. We looked at the silk shirts and ties but they were pretty expensive. Things are a lot cheaper in the markets but we were told that in the markets the silk is often mixed with cotton or rayon and it is impossible to tell this by looking at it.
We next visited a leather factory, then a wood carving factory. The wood carving was disappointing; it was the one place where we were most looking forward to seeing as we were thinking of buying a carving. But the carvings were either ugly, or they were very expensive. The carved wall pictures which were the only thing we really liked were over $1000!
Last visit of the day was to the silver makers. We found a gold charm here that Ralph bought me. We try and get a gold charm from every country we visit to go on my gold bracelet. The one we bought was a Thai Buddha. The silver items were very reasonable.
Thailand Trip: Chiang Rai
The next day we left the hotel at 7am and drove out of Bangkok. Our first stop was a salt farm, a huge flat area of evaporation pans where they are reclaiming salt from seawater. We drove at least five miles through this area; some of the salt had dried and was gathered into neat white pyramids, but a lot of the fields were flooded with the saline solution.
We then stopped to see how the Thai people make sugar for themselves. This sugar is made out of coconut and the Thais use this sugar for cooking. We saw the liquid nectar being collected by an old man climbing up a tree. It is then put in vats and we saw it bubbling away on the smoky fires.
We then boarded the long tailed boats for an interesting boat ride through the Klongs to the Floating Market.
The Floating market was a remarkable place. The Thai people bring in their produce from far and wide and all trade is done from their boats. The boats carried a variety of goods from fruit and vegetables, rice, sugar, pots and pans and hats for the tourists to buy.
It was so hot and humid here that we would have enjoyed it a lot more if the temperature and humidity had been lower.
As we had travelled earlier along the Klongs to the floating market we had had our photograph taken and this, over the next couple of hours, was developed and stuck on a plate. When we left the Floating Market and got back to the coach, the enterprising photographer had a stall set up, with all the plates on sale for 150 Baht each. Our plate was quite a good picture of us, and of course we bought it...
We then went on what we felt a wasted trip to "the largest pagoda in the world". I thought it was a very ugly yellow building, a bit like an upturned ice cream cornet with scaffolding around it. There were some monks sitting cross legged on a table blessing people by flicking water over their heads. I didn't want to be blessed but I would not have minded having the water treatment, it might have cooled me down.
We then visited a wood carving factory, this was much more interesting. The carving was superb, it reminded us of the wood carvers in Nepal. There was a showroom which was air conditioned and we spent most of the time in there, although it was interesting to see the craftsmen actually carving out the furniture.
We had lunch at the Rose Garden and after lunch we went to the amphitheater for a culture show. We bought some bananas, and we just managed to feed them to the elephants, who were giving rides to the tourists.
The show was very good. Thai dancing is slow, and the dancers make full use of their hands, arms and feet. We saw an exhibition of Thai boxing - where they do pretty much the same! There was a cane dance, which I had seen on the Generation Game at home on T.V. "It hurts if you get it wrong"! We saw several more traditional dances. When we came out of the amphitheatre we watched the elephants pushing logs in and out of the water and entertaining us.
We would like to have spend longer here at the Rose Garden; there were obviously a lot of beautiful grounds to explore and we never had the time.
When the room boy turns down the bed for the night he leaves an orchid on the pillow every night.
Today we are flying to Chiang Rai. Chiang Rai is about 500 miles north of Bangkok and the flight took about 45 minutes. Chiang Rai is the capital of Thailand's furthest northern province.
After landing in Chiang Rai we drove to our hotel, stopping to look at a pagoda on the way. The pagoda looked very old and was covered in mud and grass. We then went on a river trip. We got into long tailed boats and went racing up the Maekhong River. The river is very fast flowing. We watched some people on the far bank who were in the country of Laos, and were panning for gold at the edge of the river. There were naked laughing children leaping in and out of the water.
There were quite a few buffalo behaving like hippos, not much more than their nostrils out of the water. We cruised right up to the Golden Triangle. On the left bank was Burma, on the right band was Laos and behind us Thailand. All three countries so close with no customs posts anywhere. It was strange to be able to look at three different countries all within swimming distance.
As we came ashore we had our photograph taken against the sign say Golden Triangle.
We visited the Opium museum which was very small but no less interesting for all that. We were told that smuggling still goes on here As well as opium, cross-border smuggling through the Golden Triangle involves manufactured items such as razor blades, toothpaste and biros going into Burma and Laos, and stolen religious artifacts coming out.
We were staying at Le Meridien Baan Boran. I feel much more in Thailand now, the countryside is just how I imagined it would be. There is a good pool at the hotel which we sampled after lunch.
The safety system at this hotel for locking up your valuables is to collect a padlock from reception and use it to lock a small cupboard in our bedroom. We duly collect our padlock and 'secure' our valuables!!
The following day we went to visit a Thai mountian village. The village lay in a deep hollow in the forest. It was quite a steep climb down and I was a bit worried about getting back up as it was very slippery on the dry clay soil.
The young men were away working in the fields. Some very pretty colourful girls and young children were in the village. I bought a bracelet from one pretty Mum with a baby slung on her back. The child was a chubby smiling little thing. There was one little boy who took a shine to Ralph and took hold of his hand and was quite determined to pull him back up the hill - which he duly did. He got a tip from Ralph for his trouble which was the object of the exercise, but he was worth it - a little charmer with a lovely smile.
We then stopped to see how the Thai people make sugar for themselves. This sugar is made out of coconut and the Thais use this sugar for cooking. We saw the liquid nectar being collected by an old man climbing up a tree. It is then put in vats and we saw it bubbling away on the smoky fires.
We then boarded the long tailed boats for an interesting boat ride through the Klongs to the Floating Market.
The Floating market was a remarkable place. The Thai people bring in their produce from far and wide and all trade is done from their boats. The boats carried a variety of goods from fruit and vegetables, rice, sugar, pots and pans and hats for the tourists to buy.
It was so hot and humid here that we would have enjoyed it a lot more if the temperature and humidity had been lower.
As we had travelled earlier along the Klongs to the floating market we had had our photograph taken and this, over the next couple of hours, was developed and stuck on a plate. When we left the Floating Market and got back to the coach, the enterprising photographer had a stall set up, with all the plates on sale for 150 Baht each. Our plate was quite a good picture of us, and of course we bought it...
We then went on what we felt a wasted trip to "the largest pagoda in the world". I thought it was a very ugly yellow building, a bit like an upturned ice cream cornet with scaffolding around it. There were some monks sitting cross legged on a table blessing people by flicking water over their heads. I didn't want to be blessed but I would not have minded having the water treatment, it might have cooled me down.
We then visited a wood carving factory, this was much more interesting. The carving was superb, it reminded us of the wood carvers in Nepal. There was a showroom which was air conditioned and we spent most of the time in there, although it was interesting to see the craftsmen actually carving out the furniture.
We had lunch at the Rose Garden and after lunch we went to the amphitheater for a culture show. We bought some bananas, and we just managed to feed them to the elephants, who were giving rides to the tourists.
The show was very good. Thai dancing is slow, and the dancers make full use of their hands, arms and feet. We saw an exhibition of Thai boxing - where they do pretty much the same! There was a cane dance, which I had seen on the Generation Game at home on T.V. "It hurts if you get it wrong"! We saw several more traditional dances. When we came out of the amphitheatre we watched the elephants pushing logs in and out of the water and entertaining us.
We would like to have spend longer here at the Rose Garden; there were obviously a lot of beautiful grounds to explore and we never had the time.
When the room boy turns down the bed for the night he leaves an orchid on the pillow every night.
Today we are flying to Chiang Rai. Chiang Rai is about 500 miles north of Bangkok and the flight took about 45 minutes. Chiang Rai is the capital of Thailand's furthest northern province.
After landing in Chiang Rai we drove to our hotel, stopping to look at a pagoda on the way. The pagoda looked very old and was covered in mud and grass. We then went on a river trip. We got into long tailed boats and went racing up the Maekhong River. The river is very fast flowing. We watched some people on the far bank who were in the country of Laos, and were panning for gold at the edge of the river. There were naked laughing children leaping in and out of the water.
There were quite a few buffalo behaving like hippos, not much more than their nostrils out of the water. We cruised right up to the Golden Triangle. On the left bank was Burma, on the right band was Laos and behind us Thailand. All three countries so close with no customs posts anywhere. It was strange to be able to look at three different countries all within swimming distance.
As we came ashore we had our photograph taken against the sign say Golden Triangle.
We visited the Opium museum which was very small but no less interesting for all that. We were told that smuggling still goes on here As well as opium, cross-border smuggling through the Golden Triangle involves manufactured items such as razor blades, toothpaste and biros going into Burma and Laos, and stolen religious artifacts coming out.
We were staying at Le Meridien Baan Boran. I feel much more in Thailand now, the countryside is just how I imagined it would be. There is a good pool at the hotel which we sampled after lunch.
The safety system at this hotel for locking up your valuables is to collect a padlock from reception and use it to lock a small cupboard in our bedroom. We duly collect our padlock and 'secure' our valuables!!
The following day we went to visit a Thai mountian village. The village lay in a deep hollow in the forest. It was quite a steep climb down and I was a bit worried about getting back up as it was very slippery on the dry clay soil.
The young men were away working in the fields. Some very pretty colourful girls and young children were in the village. I bought a bracelet from one pretty Mum with a baby slung on her back. The child was a chubby smiling little thing. There was one little boy who took a shine to Ralph and took hold of his hand and was quite determined to pull him back up the hill - which he duly did. He got a tip from Ralph for his trouble which was the object of the exercise, but he was worth it - a little charmer with a lovely smile.
Thailand Trip: Watpo Temple Complex
We flew with Thai Airways to Bangkok. Bangkok is 7 hours ahead of UK time. Just before we landed, all the ladies were given, by the cabin staff, an orchid to wear, we thought that a lovely touch.
We stopped at The Royal Orchid Hotel which has 775 rooms and is on the banks of the Chao Phraya river which means that there is a cooling breeze most of the day. The exchange rate in June 2000 was 52.7 Baht to the $1.
After recovering from the overnight flight we went for a ride in a traditional long-tailed boat which is a long narrow craft propelled by a noisy car engine with a long propeller shaft. This was fun, but not the most comfortable way to travel. There are spray dodgers along the side of the boat, and at times they were needed. We were startled to see that on some of these boats, the engines still have the cooling fan attached. So the driver is sitting just in front of this whirling blade. They didn't tell us what to do if our driver gets 'blended' !
Kok means village on water, Bangkok means village of Plums, on water.
We soon left the main river and cruised down the canals which are called klongs. This was really interesting and we passed rickety houses on stilts where the inhabitants were going about their daily business of living, washing, shopping or just relaxing. I wondered how long these houses stay up on their poles, some looked like they were falling over. We went very fast along the klongs, except where it was so narrow we had to slow down.
We then transferred to an old rice barge and slowly made our way up the klong and into the main river. The rice barge dropped us at the staging of our hotel.
After a nights sleep we went out on a tour of Bangkok. Our first stop was at Wat Pho. Wat means temple in Thailand. Wat Pho is the oldest and largest temple in Bangkok, and it was built in the 16th century. It is in fact a series of temples, set within eight acres.
In the left-hand corner of the compound is the temple which enshrines the enormous Buddha image which gives the temple its popular name. This is Thailand's largest statue of the reclining Buddha.
The statue measures 145ft long and 50ft high. It is made of brick covered with plaster and gold leaf and is impressive but very difficult to photograph.
We went into several Wats and saw lots of Buddhas, and saw lots of people praying to their favourite statue. They give to the statue of their choice a lotus flower, joss sticks, a candle and a piece of gold leaf. The gold leaf is about 1" square and they stick it on the Buddha they are praying to. They light both the candle and joss sticks as they pray and lay the lotus flower at the feet of the Buddha. The candle symbolizes the light of understanding, the lotus is considered an exalted flower. For the incense there must be three sticks, which represent the Buddhist Triple Gem, standing for the Buddha, his teachings (the dharma) and the monkhood (the sangha). The square of gold leaf; it is believed that he or she will receive certain benefit. There are three especially important places to put the gold leaf; on the mouth so that the giver will be blessed with good speech or sweet talk; on the head so as to become more wise; on the chest over the heart to ensure a good heart in the sense of both health and kindness.
At this site at the western end is a traditional Thai massage school. We both booked a massage, the massseur will come to our hotel later on today.
It is very hot and humid, making yomping around temples pretty uncomfortable.
We went onto Wat Phra Keo, this is the temple of the Emerald Buddha. All very impressive, but I was getting very hot and sticky and could only think of getting in a shower.
The last call of the afternoon was to the Wat of the solid gold Buddha, Wat Traimit. This was pretty impressive; the Buddha is 10ft high, weighs five and half tonnes, and is solid gold. It was discovered by accident on in 1953. Being moved to another temple it slipped off a crane and the outer stucco cracked realing its secret. It was probably encased in plaster to prevent capture by the Burmese in the 18th century. This Buddha is in the Guinness Book of Records.
When I got back into the coach I discovered that I had somehow picked up a piece of gold leaf which I found sticking to my arm. Maybe someone thought I looked like a Buddha!!
At 4pm two masseurs arrived. A real professional job they both did. They charged about $15. It was a bit painful at times but I felt better afterwards. The masseurs are not meant to come into the hotel as the hotel has its own massage parlour, which is a lot more expensive than $15! My masseur discovered I had a stiff neck and tutted a bit. I have booked him again tomorrow. Ralph wasn't so keen and once was enough for him.
After dinner I had my palm read by an old chinese gentlemen who was sitting out on the hotel terrace. He told me to hold on to my money - then took $15 from me!! He gave me a run down for the next ten years with the good and bad months and years. He drew all the information on a scrap of paper which is really quite difficult to understand now.
We watched a show of Thai dancing which is very slow and deliberate with emphasis on hand and foot movement.
Today we have a relaxing day swimming and sunbathing by the pool. In the late afternoon my masseur arrived. His name is Onee. He concentrated on my neck and back; it was a bit painful, but it is doing some good. His son, who is 12 years old is already learning the massage skills.
There was a young woman in the reception area playing an instrument like a zither, the music was certainly oriental. She sat cross legged on a large cushion playing and looked like she was in a trance.
After dinner we set off to find the night market on the PatPong Road. We went by Tuk Tuk (motorized trishaw). The Tuk Tuks are cheaper than taxis and much more fun, our fare was 40 Baht, which is just over $1.
The market was all very noisy and colourful. There are lots of bars behind the market stalls offering everything under the sun to do with sex shows and Thai boxing. Everywhere, smooth young men were trying to persuade us to go inside. "Check it out, boys" - all I could think of was the Engineer in the West End Musical Miss Saigon.
Eventually, after much discussion and plucking up of courage, we went into one. It was the most un-sexy display one could imagine. No pretence at artistry, not even erotic - just undignified and utter sleaze.
We did all the wrong things; instead of going into a bar that led straight off the street, we were taken up some wooden stairs into a room. There was a stage of sorts that measured about 12ft x 8ft, where girls were doing things with darts and razor blades that were to say the least - surprising! And a novel way of blowing out candles!! We stayed about 15 minutes. We were presented with a bill for 980 Baht. We refused to pay as we had been told by the pimp outside on the pavement that it would only cost 60 Baht. We were told 60 Baht was for the show, another 60 for a couple of beers, and the rest was "membership fee!"
One girl was barring the door and we couldn't see what money we had. Ralph suddently discovered that, while he was trying to sort out some money to pay them, 1000 Baht had gone out of his wallet - or out of his hand, he wasn't sure which. We threatened to call the police and wouldn't pay them any more, as they had already stolen 1000 Baht. Just how they stole it we couldn't figure, it was centainly very slickly done.
I was getting cross and I pushed the girl at the door out of the way, luckily the door opened outwards, and we got out into the fresh air. We hurried down the stairs onto the pavement. We had been well and truly "engineered," but we put it down to experience. If we hadn't gone in we would always have wondered what it was like inside - now we know! Neither of us regret going in, it was a pity there were not four of us, it would then have been more 'fun'.
We hailed another Tuk Tuk back to the hotel. We got a bit worried when the Tuk Tuk driver didn't know the way, he had to stop and ask. He didn't speak English, and we didn't speak Thai. The Bell Captain at the hotel had given us a card with the hotel's name and address on for just this sort of occasion. So we got back in one piece - older and wiser - and relieved to be back.
We stopped at The Royal Orchid Hotel which has 775 rooms and is on the banks of the Chao Phraya river which means that there is a cooling breeze most of the day. The exchange rate in June 2000 was 52.7 Baht to the $1.
After recovering from the overnight flight we went for a ride in a traditional long-tailed boat which is a long narrow craft propelled by a noisy car engine with a long propeller shaft. This was fun, but not the most comfortable way to travel. There are spray dodgers along the side of the boat, and at times they were needed. We were startled to see that on some of these boats, the engines still have the cooling fan attached. So the driver is sitting just in front of this whirling blade. They didn't tell us what to do if our driver gets 'blended' !
Kok means village on water, Bangkok means village of Plums, on water.
We soon left the main river and cruised down the canals which are called klongs. This was really interesting and we passed rickety houses on stilts where the inhabitants were going about their daily business of living, washing, shopping or just relaxing. I wondered how long these houses stay up on their poles, some looked like they were falling over. We went very fast along the klongs, except where it was so narrow we had to slow down.
We then transferred to an old rice barge and slowly made our way up the klong and into the main river. The rice barge dropped us at the staging of our hotel.
After a nights sleep we went out on a tour of Bangkok. Our first stop was at Wat Pho. Wat means temple in Thailand. Wat Pho is the oldest and largest temple in Bangkok, and it was built in the 16th century. It is in fact a series of temples, set within eight acres.
In the left-hand corner of the compound is the temple which enshrines the enormous Buddha image which gives the temple its popular name. This is Thailand's largest statue of the reclining Buddha.
The statue measures 145ft long and 50ft high. It is made of brick covered with plaster and gold leaf and is impressive but very difficult to photograph.
We went into several Wats and saw lots of Buddhas, and saw lots of people praying to their favourite statue. They give to the statue of their choice a lotus flower, joss sticks, a candle and a piece of gold leaf. The gold leaf is about 1" square and they stick it on the Buddha they are praying to. They light both the candle and joss sticks as they pray and lay the lotus flower at the feet of the Buddha. The candle symbolizes the light of understanding, the lotus is considered an exalted flower. For the incense there must be three sticks, which represent the Buddhist Triple Gem, standing for the Buddha, his teachings (the dharma) and the monkhood (the sangha). The square of gold leaf; it is believed that he or she will receive certain benefit. There are three especially important places to put the gold leaf; on the mouth so that the giver will be blessed with good speech or sweet talk; on the head so as to become more wise; on the chest over the heart to ensure a good heart in the sense of both health and kindness.
At this site at the western end is a traditional Thai massage school. We both booked a massage, the massseur will come to our hotel later on today.
It is very hot and humid, making yomping around temples pretty uncomfortable.
We went onto Wat Phra Keo, this is the temple of the Emerald Buddha. All very impressive, but I was getting very hot and sticky and could only think of getting in a shower.
The last call of the afternoon was to the Wat of the solid gold Buddha, Wat Traimit. This was pretty impressive; the Buddha is 10ft high, weighs five and half tonnes, and is solid gold. It was discovered by accident on in 1953. Being moved to another temple it slipped off a crane and the outer stucco cracked realing its secret. It was probably encased in plaster to prevent capture by the Burmese in the 18th century. This Buddha is in the Guinness Book of Records.
When I got back into the coach I discovered that I had somehow picked up a piece of gold leaf which I found sticking to my arm. Maybe someone thought I looked like a Buddha!!
At 4pm two masseurs arrived. A real professional job they both did. They charged about $15. It was a bit painful at times but I felt better afterwards. The masseurs are not meant to come into the hotel as the hotel has its own massage parlour, which is a lot more expensive than $15! My masseur discovered I had a stiff neck and tutted a bit. I have booked him again tomorrow. Ralph wasn't so keen and once was enough for him.
After dinner I had my palm read by an old chinese gentlemen who was sitting out on the hotel terrace. He told me to hold on to my money - then took $15 from me!! He gave me a run down for the next ten years with the good and bad months and years. He drew all the information on a scrap of paper which is really quite difficult to understand now.
We watched a show of Thai dancing which is very slow and deliberate with emphasis on hand and foot movement.
Today we have a relaxing day swimming and sunbathing by the pool. In the late afternoon my masseur arrived. His name is Onee. He concentrated on my neck and back; it was a bit painful, but it is doing some good. His son, who is 12 years old is already learning the massage skills.
There was a young woman in the reception area playing an instrument like a zither, the music was certainly oriental. She sat cross legged on a large cushion playing and looked like she was in a trance.
After dinner we set off to find the night market on the PatPong Road. We went by Tuk Tuk (motorized trishaw). The Tuk Tuks are cheaper than taxis and much more fun, our fare was 40 Baht, which is just over $1.
The market was all very noisy and colourful. There are lots of bars behind the market stalls offering everything under the sun to do with sex shows and Thai boxing. Everywhere, smooth young men were trying to persuade us to go inside. "Check it out, boys" - all I could think of was the Engineer in the West End Musical Miss Saigon.
Eventually, after much discussion and plucking up of courage, we went into one. It was the most un-sexy display one could imagine. No pretence at artistry, not even erotic - just undignified and utter sleaze.
We did all the wrong things; instead of going into a bar that led straight off the street, we were taken up some wooden stairs into a room. There was a stage of sorts that measured about 12ft x 8ft, where girls were doing things with darts and razor blades that were to say the least - surprising! And a novel way of blowing out candles!! We stayed about 15 minutes. We were presented with a bill for 980 Baht. We refused to pay as we had been told by the pimp outside on the pavement that it would only cost 60 Baht. We were told 60 Baht was for the show, another 60 for a couple of beers, and the rest was "membership fee!"
One girl was barring the door and we couldn't see what money we had. Ralph suddently discovered that, while he was trying to sort out some money to pay them, 1000 Baht had gone out of his wallet - or out of his hand, he wasn't sure which. We threatened to call the police and wouldn't pay them any more, as they had already stolen 1000 Baht. Just how they stole it we couldn't figure, it was centainly very slickly done.
I was getting cross and I pushed the girl at the door out of the way, luckily the door opened outwards, and we got out into the fresh air. We hurried down the stairs onto the pavement. We had been well and truly "engineered," but we put it down to experience. If we hadn't gone in we would always have wondered what it was like inside - now we know! Neither of us regret going in, it was a pity there were not four of us, it would then have been more 'fun'.
We hailed another Tuk Tuk back to the hotel. We got a bit worried when the Tuk Tuk driver didn't know the way, he had to stop and ask. He didn't speak English, and we didn't speak Thai. The Bell Captain at the hotel had given us a card with the hotel's name and address on for just this sort of occasion. So we got back in one piece - older and wiser - and relieved to be back.
Sunday, June 1, 2008
Chatuchak/Mo Chit Weekend Market, Bangkok, Thailand
Today I once again took a weekend "stroll" to one of the largest markets in Thailand, the Chatuchak Weekend Market. Fortunately it is only a few minutes from my home here in Bangkok and by using the BTS, I need to go only a single station before I exit.
Bangkok Post article on the plants at Chatuchak Market.
My normal routine is to leave around 8AM and exit the next to last station (Saphan Khwai) on this BTS line. I think most go directly to the market and exit at Mo Chit but I prefer to take in the many individuals who have brought their small assortment of items from home and are now selling them between Saphan Khwai and Mo Chit. Even if you are in no hurry and manage a glance at each person's "carpet" of wares, it won't take more than 15 minutes to end up at one of the many entrances to Chatuchak and its' 6000 stalls.
My goals are simple when I do this as I collect two things here in Asia at the moment that I know can sometimes be found from individuals. One is Chinese snuff bottles and the other is used phone cards. As weird as that might sound, both are collectables in both Europe and North America and are quite interesting, enjoyable and can on occasion be worth considerably more than you paid. This morning I am once again lucky and find one person selling six bottles. I select three and start talking about price. We manage to get his asking price down from 220 each to 500 baht for the three I want. He wanted 550 but when I started to walk away, it went to 500. Nice bottles.
A few of the many vendors lining the street between the Saphan Khwai and Mo Chit BTS (Skytrain) stations. The vast majority are involved in selling and trading Buddhist amulets.
Once I got to the market with my new possessions, I immediately head for a weekend "cafe" where I swear you can drink the best coffee in Thailand. They also make a mean honey or banana pancake as well. Two cups of coffee and a pancake later, I pay my 45 Baht and head down the many aisles packed with goods from all over Thailand.
My favorite weekend cafe at the market.
Always smiling, happy people here!
The market itself is talked about in so many guidebooks that I can do little here to describe it better but I can tell you about my favorite places to visit.
I guess my favorite, being a teacher and loving to read, is the used book stalls at the far end near the antique dealers. I guess I like used and old things as both the vendors who have my Chinese Snuff Bottles and those that carry used books are literally next to the other. Fine with me as this place is huge!!
In the stalls that have used books, one really needs to spend a lot of time to go through the many "jewels" that can be found here. One thing I am also looking for is used English books from Reward, New Interchange, etc. and I have always been able to find them here at considerably less than their new price in Siam Square bookshops.
You can also find every magazine here, textbook and novel. Many in Thai of course, but almost as many in English. With the cost of books and magazines so incredibly high here in Asia, this is the best deal going that I have found for books. Of course all prices are negotiable as always.
One of the markets many used book vendors.
I than start strolling down the many long aisles. As the morning gets older, the sun higher and the crowds larger, these aisles become almost impassible and the buildings quite hot. I prefer to come early and move fast!
There really is everything from everywhere. The fish and animals always make me stop and look. Some guide books complain of their captivity, I guess if they have to be where they are, why not enjoy them? The silk flowers are amazing in their beauty and design. The craftsmanship in the wood items always amazes me.
There is of course stall after stall of clothing items and shoes. Some quite unique actually. There is a small assortment of stalls where you could literally outfit a small army with everything but the actual weapons. I have eaten at several of the food stalls often and it is always good, very fast and cheap, but I think the thing I like best is watching the people.
This is where I usually eat on my visits to the market.
It is the people that I go to Chatuchak for, both the Thais and the foreigners. The Thais are always watching and when you catch them watching, it is always interesting to see what they do next. Most will smile, some will quickly look away and only when you are not watching, look right back at you again. There is always a bit of flirting going on, even from some that you might not want to be flirting with you. Want to know who? Go to one of Thailand's largest market and experience it all!
7 July, Went today a bit later than usual, around 2PM and it was brutally hot. The kind of hot that one can only experience in Bangkok as it must have been over a 100 degrees inside the closed, non-ventilated, metal roofed buildings. Just as it seemed I couldn't take it longer, nature stepped in, and a storm roared up and dumped its' rain and cooled things off dramatically. What a relief it was!
Between the buildings a canvass covers the walking are and it is pouring down between the sheets!
I actually got to explore a section I had never been in before. I guess I'll call it the "new section". It was far less crowded but I did manage to find a new lamp here and got some amazingly beautiful silk ties for 10 Baht each. Yes, 10 Baht each!! The same tie in the USA would be at least $20-$30 USD.
Bangkok Post article on the plants at Chatuchak Market.
My normal routine is to leave around 8AM and exit the next to last station (Saphan Khwai) on this BTS line. I think most go directly to the market and exit at Mo Chit but I prefer to take in the many individuals who have brought their small assortment of items from home and are now selling them between Saphan Khwai and Mo Chit. Even if you are in no hurry and manage a glance at each person's "carpet" of wares, it won't take more than 15 minutes to end up at one of the many entrances to Chatuchak and its' 6000 stalls.
My goals are simple when I do this as I collect two things here in Asia at the moment that I know can sometimes be found from individuals. One is Chinese snuff bottles and the other is used phone cards. As weird as that might sound, both are collectables in both Europe and North America and are quite interesting, enjoyable and can on occasion be worth considerably more than you paid. This morning I am once again lucky and find one person selling six bottles. I select three and start talking about price. We manage to get his asking price down from 220 each to 500 baht for the three I want. He wanted 550 but when I started to walk away, it went to 500. Nice bottles.
A few of the many vendors lining the street between the Saphan Khwai and Mo Chit BTS (Skytrain) stations. The vast majority are involved in selling and trading Buddhist amulets.
Once I got to the market with my new possessions, I immediately head for a weekend "cafe" where I swear you can drink the best coffee in Thailand. They also make a mean honey or banana pancake as well. Two cups of coffee and a pancake later, I pay my 45 Baht and head down the many aisles packed with goods from all over Thailand.
My favorite weekend cafe at the market.
Always smiling, happy people here!
The market itself is talked about in so many guidebooks that I can do little here to describe it better but I can tell you about my favorite places to visit.
I guess my favorite, being a teacher and loving to read, is the used book stalls at the far end near the antique dealers. I guess I like used and old things as both the vendors who have my Chinese Snuff Bottles and those that carry used books are literally next to the other. Fine with me as this place is huge!!
In the stalls that have used books, one really needs to spend a lot of time to go through the many "jewels" that can be found here. One thing I am also looking for is used English books from Reward, New Interchange, etc. and I have always been able to find them here at considerably less than their new price in Siam Square bookshops.
You can also find every magazine here, textbook and novel. Many in Thai of course, but almost as many in English. With the cost of books and magazines so incredibly high here in Asia, this is the best deal going that I have found for books. Of course all prices are negotiable as always.
One of the markets many used book vendors.
I than start strolling down the many long aisles. As the morning gets older, the sun higher and the crowds larger, these aisles become almost impassible and the buildings quite hot. I prefer to come early and move fast!
There really is everything from everywhere. The fish and animals always make me stop and look. Some guide books complain of their captivity, I guess if they have to be where they are, why not enjoy them? The silk flowers are amazing in their beauty and design. The craftsmanship in the wood items always amazes me.
There is of course stall after stall of clothing items and shoes. Some quite unique actually. There is a small assortment of stalls where you could literally outfit a small army with everything but the actual weapons. I have eaten at several of the food stalls often and it is always good, very fast and cheap, but I think the thing I like best is watching the people.
This is where I usually eat on my visits to the market.
It is the people that I go to Chatuchak for, both the Thais and the foreigners. The Thais are always watching and when you catch them watching, it is always interesting to see what they do next. Most will smile, some will quickly look away and only when you are not watching, look right back at you again. There is always a bit of flirting going on, even from some that you might not want to be flirting with you. Want to know who? Go to one of Thailand's largest market and experience it all!
7 July, Went today a bit later than usual, around 2PM and it was brutally hot. The kind of hot that one can only experience in Bangkok as it must have been over a 100 degrees inside the closed, non-ventilated, metal roofed buildings. Just as it seemed I couldn't take it longer, nature stepped in, and a storm roared up and dumped its' rain and cooled things off dramatically. What a relief it was!
Between the buildings a canvass covers the walking are and it is pouring down between the sheets!I actually got to explore a section I had never been in before. I guess I'll call it the "new section". It was far less crowded but I did manage to find a new lamp here and got some amazingly beautiful silk ties for 10 Baht each. Yes, 10 Baht each!! The same tie in the USA would be at least $20-$30 USD.
Thailand: Chiang Mai's old city
Walking through history Ron takes a stroll with his camera through Chiang Mai's old city
One of the most enjoyable, not to mention cheapest, ways to explore Chiang Mai is on foot, and this tour takes you along some of the most interesting backstreets of the old city. It begins in the northeast corner and zig-zags through quiet lanes, taking in some of the city's most intriguing temples before arriving at Buak Haad Park in the southwest corner.
The brickwork at Sri Phum corner is wonderfully warped. On the way there are plenty of places to stop for refreshments, and you will almost certainly experience friendly interaction with curious locals. The walk takes three or four hours, allowing plenty of time for stops, and is best done in the morning to avoid the afternoon heat.
Begin on the outside of the moat at Sri Phum corner of the old, walled city. The bastion that stands here is the most evocative of all the city's crumbling fortifications, because of the way its lines of brickwork have become wonderfully warped. Facing the bastion, walk to your right and follow the route on the map along the narrow Sri Phum Soi 2 and then Moonmuang Soi 9, before turning left into Ratchaphakhinai Road to get to Wat Chiang Man.
Scene during Inthakin ceremony at Wat Chedi Luang. This is the oldest temple in the city and dates back to 1296. Take a look in the small viharn to the right, which houses two of the city's most highly-valued Buddha images, the Phra Sila, a marble bas- relief from Sri Lanka, and the Phra Sae Tang Khamani, a tiny crystal image sheltered by an umbrella. The Phra Sila image is believed to have the power to bring rain, while the Phra Sae Tang Khamani image, which once survived a fire, is thought to have the power to protect against disaster.
Walk around the back of the viharn to see the oldest and most interesting aspect of this temple-a stupa called the Chang Lom Chedi. This is an especially attractive structure, capped with glittering gold and supported by elephants.
The ubosot, chedi and viharn at Wat Saen Muang Ma Luang. To the south of the stupa is a raised scripture repository and an ubosot, and at the back of the compound is a small pond. Leave the temple by the back gate and follow the route up to Phra Pokklao Road. Go right past the Thai Airways office, and if you're feeling hungry, stop by at The Amazing Sandwich (open 9am-9pm, closed Sunday), where you can build your own creation from a wide range of fillings and choice of bread.
Continue heading north along Phra Pokklao Road for a few steps, looking opposite for a narrow lane with temple buildings at the end. Cross over and go along this lane into the compound of Wat Saen Muang Ma Luang (aka Wat Hua Khuang), a rarely-visited but very attractive temple complex.
Buak Haad Park.
To the left is the ubosot, lavishly decorated with glass mosaics, and behind this and the viharn stands a beautiful old brick stupa, with plants sprouting from it and a gleaming, golden pinnacle. There is a bright red and white scripture repository beside the stupa, and a shrine to Ganesha (a Hindu god) at the back of the compound.
Turn left out of the back gate of this compound and follow the route along (usually) quiet streets to the Three Kings' Monument. The square is often empty during the day unless there is a special ceremony taking place, and shady trees make it a relaxing spot to rest. King Mengrai, who founded the city in 1296, is in the centre of the monument and is flanked by his allies, King Ramkhamhaeng and King Ngam Muang.
Stucco angels surround the base of the scripture library at Wat Phra Singh The alliance that Mengrai forged with these leaders of neighbouring kingdoms allowed his own Kingdom of Lanna to flourish in its early years. Mengrai's name for the city, Chiang Mai, means New City, which seems ironic these days, as its principal attractions are precisely those features like the protective walls and moat that give it an aura of great age.
The old City Hall, situated behind the monument, will open as an Arts & Culture Museum at some future date. Walk down busy Phra Pokklao Road to the corner of Ratchadamnoen Road, where there is a shrine to King Mengrai. This looks like an elaborate spirit house, with the main image perpetually smothered in bright bands of cloth.
King Mengrai _ Chiang Mai's founder.
The walls around have tiled panels depicting scenes from his life. Directly opposite the shrine is Cafe Chic (open 10am-8pm, closed Sunday), which has refreshing aircon, newspapers and Thai as well as Western food, including excellent coffee and home-made cookies.
Just south of the cafe on Phra Pokklao Road is the compound of Wat Pan Tao, with a lovely glass-inlaid carving of a peacock above the doors, which dazzles and sparkles when caught by the morning sun. Walk into the compound and pass the solid, wooden viharn, an imposing structure that once functioned as a ho kham, or royal hall. Leave the temple by the back gate, then turn left into the compound of Wat Chedi Luang.
On your left is the enormous viharn, and behind that, in the southeast corner of the compound, is Chiang Mai's City Pillar, located in a cruciform building beneath a towering gum tree (local legend has it that as long as this tree stands, the city is safe from harm).
To your right is the temple's main feature, a huge brick chedi built in the 15th century, that once stood 90 metres high until it was damaged by an earthquake in the mid-16th century. It is still an impressive structure and is now about 60 metres high.
Shrine to Ganesha at Saen Muang Ma Luang.
Wat Chedi Luang is the focus of Inthakhin, a traditional local ceremony intended to bring on the arrival of the rains as well as encourage prosperity for the city and its inhabitants. The ceremony took place this year from May 19-25. During this week, locals come to the temple, especially in the evenings, to pay respect to the City Pillar, make offerings and wash the Buddha images, so it is a particularly interesting time to be around.
This temple is also a favourite place to go for the Buddhist puja festivals, which commemorate important events in the life of the Buddha and take place at the full moon in February, May and July. The main attraction of these festivals is the wien thien, or candle-lit walk around the temple's illuminated stupa.
The sight of thousands of people clutching candles, flowers and incense as they walk mindfully around the towering structure is likely to stick in the memory for years to come. As with most Thai festivals and ceremonies, foreigners are encouraged to join in too.
Go out of the back gate of Wat Chedi Luang and follow the route round past the police station to Wat Phra Singh, which stands prominently at the end of Ratchadamnoen Road, reflecting its importance among local temples. Like Wat Chedi Luang, it is a popular place to go for the puja festivals, and is also the destination for the Songkran parade of Buddha images.
On your right as you enter is the exquisite scripture library, one of the finest examples of Lanna art, consisting of a wooden building on a tall base that is surrounded by stucco angels. The main viharn is large and imposing, but of more interest is the smaller viharn, set back to the left of the main building.
This is the Viharn Lai Kham, which is definitely worth a look inside after appreciating its gleaming bargeboards and beautifully-carved gables. The building contains the much-revered Phra Sihing Buddha image and some fascinating murals depicting Lanna lifestyle in bygone days. Follow the path to the left of the Viharn Lai Kham and leave the temple by the back gate.
If you are ready to eat at this stage and want to sample some of the best northern Thai food available in town, step round the corner to Ta-Krite ("Lemon grass") restaurant (open 11am-11pm), which has a cosy atmosphere and ferns draped over the entrance. Take the small lane (Ratchamanka Soi 8) heading south immediately beside Ta-Krite restaurant and walk on to
Wat Meun Ngern Kong, one of the city's lesser-known temples. Go round to the left of the viharn, pausing to look at the intricate carvings on the front doors, then take a look at the huge reclining Buddha on the other side of the building. Just to the left of this image is a bo tree with many smaller Buddha images beneath it. Look for a narrow alley behind the bo tree and follow it between back gardens and out to a quiet lane.
Turn right here and walk along this lane, which snakes its way southward, crossing several other lanes. You may be totally templed-out by this stage, but soon on the left you will see a very unusual, stepped brick chedi in the compound of Wat Phuak Hong, which has seven rounded tiers containing Buddha images in niches and dates back to the early 16th century. The small, compact viharn, with its red and gold gables, is also very attractive, though the hall is not always open.
Continue walking south a few steps until you see a gateway leading into a park on your right. This is the back entrance to Buak Haad City Park, which is sadly the only public park anywhere near the centre of Chiang Mai. At the time of major festivals, the place is packed with revellers, but on an ordinary day it can be quiet and relaxing. Take a stroll along the winding paths that lead past flower beds, stately palms and small lakes until you find a convenient bench, then sit down to rest your weary legs. From this brief stroll, you will have learned much about the history of Thailand's northern capital.
Travel tips
What to wear: Make sure your shoulders and legs are covered to avoid causing offence when wandering around temple compounds, and choose light and loose cotton garments so that the walking is comfortable. A hat or umbrella is also advisable to shield your head from the sun's fierce rays.
Crossing roads: Generally this is no problem in Chiang
Mai's old city as traffic is light, but if you are new to the country, be advised that cars and motorbikes never give way to pedestrians, so be patient and acknowledge that in Thailand, walkers go last.
One of the most enjoyable, not to mention cheapest, ways to explore Chiang Mai is on foot, and this tour takes you along some of the most interesting backstreets of the old city. It begins in the northeast corner and zig-zags through quiet lanes, taking in some of the city's most intriguing temples before arriving at Buak Haad Park in the southwest corner.
The brickwork at Sri Phum corner is wonderfully warped. On the way there are plenty of places to stop for refreshments, and you will almost certainly experience friendly interaction with curious locals. The walk takes three or four hours, allowing plenty of time for stops, and is best done in the morning to avoid the afternoon heat.Begin on the outside of the moat at Sri Phum corner of the old, walled city. The bastion that stands here is the most evocative of all the city's crumbling fortifications, because of the way its lines of brickwork have become wonderfully warped. Facing the bastion, walk to your right and follow the route on the map along the narrow Sri Phum Soi 2 and then Moonmuang Soi 9, before turning left into Ratchaphakhinai Road to get to Wat Chiang Man.
Scene during Inthakin ceremony at Wat Chedi Luang. This is the oldest temple in the city and dates back to 1296. Take a look in the small viharn to the right, which houses two of the city's most highly-valued Buddha images, the Phra Sila, a marble bas- relief from Sri Lanka, and the Phra Sae Tang Khamani, a tiny crystal image sheltered by an umbrella. The Phra Sila image is believed to have the power to bring rain, while the Phra Sae Tang Khamani image, which once survived a fire, is thought to have the power to protect against disaster.
Walk around the back of the viharn to see the oldest and most interesting aspect of this temple-a stupa called the Chang Lom Chedi. This is an especially attractive structure, capped with glittering gold and supported by elephants.
The ubosot, chedi and viharn at Wat Saen Muang Ma Luang. To the south of the stupa is a raised scripture repository and an ubosot, and at the back of the compound is a small pond. Leave the temple by the back gate and follow the route up to Phra Pokklao Road. Go right past the Thai Airways office, and if you're feeling hungry, stop by at The Amazing Sandwich (open 9am-9pm, closed Sunday), where you can build your own creation from a wide range of fillings and choice of bread.
Continue heading north along Phra Pokklao Road for a few steps, looking opposite for a narrow lane with temple buildings at the end. Cross over and go along this lane into the compound of Wat Saen Muang Ma Luang (aka Wat Hua Khuang), a rarely-visited but very attractive temple complex.
Buak Haad Park.
To the left is the ubosot, lavishly decorated with glass mosaics, and behind this and the viharn stands a beautiful old brick stupa, with plants sprouting from it and a gleaming, golden pinnacle. There is a bright red and white scripture repository beside the stupa, and a shrine to Ganesha (a Hindu god) at the back of the compound.
Turn left out of the back gate of this compound and follow the route along (usually) quiet streets to the Three Kings' Monument. The square is often empty during the day unless there is a special ceremony taking place, and shady trees make it a relaxing spot to rest. King Mengrai, who founded the city in 1296, is in the centre of the monument and is flanked by his allies, King Ramkhamhaeng and King Ngam Muang.
Stucco angels surround the base of the scripture library at Wat Phra Singh The alliance that Mengrai forged with these leaders of neighbouring kingdoms allowed his own Kingdom of Lanna to flourish in its early years. Mengrai's name for the city, Chiang Mai, means New City, which seems ironic these days, as its principal attractions are precisely those features like the protective walls and moat that give it an aura of great age.
The old City Hall, situated behind the monument, will open as an Arts & Culture Museum at some future date. Walk down busy Phra Pokklao Road to the corner of Ratchadamnoen Road, where there is a shrine to King Mengrai. This looks like an elaborate spirit house, with the main image perpetually smothered in bright bands of cloth.
King Mengrai _ Chiang Mai's founder.
The walls around have tiled panels depicting scenes from his life. Directly opposite the shrine is Cafe Chic (open 10am-8pm, closed Sunday), which has refreshing aircon, newspapers and Thai as well as Western food, including excellent coffee and home-made cookies.
Just south of the cafe on Phra Pokklao Road is the compound of Wat Pan Tao, with a lovely glass-inlaid carving of a peacock above the doors, which dazzles and sparkles when caught by the morning sun. Walk into the compound and pass the solid, wooden viharn, an imposing structure that once functioned as a ho kham, or royal hall. Leave the temple by the back gate, then turn left into the compound of Wat Chedi Luang.
On your left is the enormous viharn, and behind that, in the southeast corner of the compound, is Chiang Mai's City Pillar, located in a cruciform building beneath a towering gum tree (local legend has it that as long as this tree stands, the city is safe from harm).
To your right is the temple's main feature, a huge brick chedi built in the 15th century, that once stood 90 metres high until it was damaged by an earthquake in the mid-16th century. It is still an impressive structure and is now about 60 metres high.
Shrine to Ganesha at Saen Muang Ma Luang.
Wat Chedi Luang is the focus of Inthakhin, a traditional local ceremony intended to bring on the arrival of the rains as well as encourage prosperity for the city and its inhabitants. The ceremony took place this year from May 19-25. During this week, locals come to the temple, especially in the evenings, to pay respect to the City Pillar, make offerings and wash the Buddha images, so it is a particularly interesting time to be around.
This temple is also a favourite place to go for the Buddhist puja festivals, which commemorate important events in the life of the Buddha and take place at the full moon in February, May and July. The main attraction of these festivals is the wien thien, or candle-lit walk around the temple's illuminated stupa.
The sight of thousands of people clutching candles, flowers and incense as they walk mindfully around the towering structure is likely to stick in the memory for years to come. As with most Thai festivals and ceremonies, foreigners are encouraged to join in too.
Go out of the back gate of Wat Chedi Luang and follow the route round past the police station to Wat Phra Singh, which stands prominently at the end of Ratchadamnoen Road, reflecting its importance among local temples. Like Wat Chedi Luang, it is a popular place to go for the puja festivals, and is also the destination for the Songkran parade of Buddha images.
On your right as you enter is the exquisite scripture library, one of the finest examples of Lanna art, consisting of a wooden building on a tall base that is surrounded by stucco angels. The main viharn is large and imposing, but of more interest is the smaller viharn, set back to the left of the main building.
This is the Viharn Lai Kham, which is definitely worth a look inside after appreciating its gleaming bargeboards and beautifully-carved gables. The building contains the much-revered Phra Sihing Buddha image and some fascinating murals depicting Lanna lifestyle in bygone days. Follow the path to the left of the Viharn Lai Kham and leave the temple by the back gate.
If you are ready to eat at this stage and want to sample some of the best northern Thai food available in town, step round the corner to Ta-Krite ("Lemon grass") restaurant (open 11am-11pm), which has a cosy atmosphere and ferns draped over the entrance. Take the small lane (Ratchamanka Soi 8) heading south immediately beside Ta-Krite restaurant and walk on to
Wat Meun Ngern Kong, one of the city's lesser-known temples. Go round to the left of the viharn, pausing to look at the intricate carvings on the front doors, then take a look at the huge reclining Buddha on the other side of the building. Just to the left of this image is a bo tree with many smaller Buddha images beneath it. Look for a narrow alley behind the bo tree and follow it between back gardens and out to a quiet lane.
Turn right here and walk along this lane, which snakes its way southward, crossing several other lanes. You may be totally templed-out by this stage, but soon on the left you will see a very unusual, stepped brick chedi in the compound of Wat Phuak Hong, which has seven rounded tiers containing Buddha images in niches and dates back to the early 16th century. The small, compact viharn, with its red and gold gables, is also very attractive, though the hall is not always open.
Continue walking south a few steps until you see a gateway leading into a park on your right. This is the back entrance to Buak Haad City Park, which is sadly the only public park anywhere near the centre of Chiang Mai. At the time of major festivals, the place is packed with revellers, but on an ordinary day it can be quiet and relaxing. Take a stroll along the winding paths that lead past flower beds, stately palms and small lakes until you find a convenient bench, then sit down to rest your weary legs. From this brief stroll, you will have learned much about the history of Thailand's northern capital.
Travel tips
What to wear: Make sure your shoulders and legs are covered to avoid causing offence when wandering around temple compounds, and choose light and loose cotton garments so that the walking is comfortable. A hat or umbrella is also advisable to shield your head from the sun's fierce rays.
Crossing roads: Generally this is no problem in Chiang
Mai's old city as traffic is light, but if you are new to the country, be advised that cars and motorbikes never give way to pedestrians, so be patient and acknowledge that in Thailand, walkers go last.
Bangkok to Chiang Mai by train (Part IV)
11:30 - 12:10 Chan Sen to Nakon Sawan
Right before our stop at Chan Sen at 11:30, I notice harvesting machines in the fields around us. Must be a fairly wealthy part of farm country as this is some expensive equipment and there is a lot of it.
During this stop another train passes us heading south and we get our second meal, lunch, which consists of rice, a fish-paddy on top of the rice, a salad consisting of some "meat balls", sponge cake and water. A very Thai lunch but filling although the thing that is suppose to be fish leaves a bit to be desired.
I notice a very large Budha on a hillside off to the west of the train near the village of Ban Takhli. At 11:45 we pass through Huwai and there really is a noticeable change in the topology and the fields. Seems to be getting richer, lusher, with less people and far fewer houses. Even the size of the rice paddies seem to be increasing. The train's speed as increased as well through this less congested area, probably around 100 kilometers and hour.
Around noon before our stop in Nakhon Sawan, the hills start to form around use and it appears we are entering some type of valley with a long ridge to the east paralleling the tracks with a less defined area off to the west.
Nakhon Sawan is only mentionable as it appears to have quite a number of new homes built in large, housing estates. I also notice the first birch trees I have seen here.
13:00 - 14:45 Ta Phan Hin to Uttaradit
Ta Phan Hin seems like a fairly large town with houses overhanging the canal paralleling the tracks. After a freight train passes us heading south, we begin to move again.
At 13:15 we stop at the village of Prichit where we once again pick up many passengers. Still manage to hang onto my empty seat next to me.
At 13:40 we stop again at some place I am unsure of the name. Many get off here.
At the town of Phitsanulok, we stop again and let another passenger train pass us heading south to Bangkok. I notice a large hotel called the Topland. I also notice they ring a bell three times at each stop right before the train leaves and there is always one uniformed individual carrying a green and red flag that seems to be indicating when and if the train can proceed forward. Even in the smaller towns, there are usually two visible men in uniforms, one carrying the flags, signaling to us as we pass through.
At 14:20 we pass through Ban Khon.
At 14:25 we come to a stop in Phichai. Interesting place from what I can see with a 2 minute stop. As we start to pass out of the town, there appears a huge mansion off to the left. Somebody here has some significant money. There are also a lot of Telco towers in the area.
At 14:45 we stop in Uttaradit for 10 minutes. Long ridge of hills to the west which are very striking and tall over the valley. As the people move to get off the train, I notice a group of monks getting off here as well.
This seems to be a large town and has a very large train yard although I can't quite explain it, it seems odd. I have now noticed an increase of my uniforms and now am seeing a group of men with a different uniform and red arm bands. There is also a huge school complex here. For who and what I don't know as there are no signs that I can see that tell me what it is.
15:00 - Bandan - The Start of the Jungle Climb
As we start the climb into the jungle, I start taking more photos. This is definitely the second stage of the journey as for the past six and a half hours, the sites and terrain have been pretty much the same. That is all changing very fast.
The road that was along the tracks in this section of the trip would be an incredible road to wonder along on a motorbike. I'll have to remember to do that someday as it really is beautiful through here.
We pass through the first of three tunnels at 15:15 and than again at 15:20. The second tunnel is much longer than the first. At 15:25 we pass through the mountain town of Huai Rai without stopping and I notice rice growing from anywhere that seems flat and corn on any clearing on the mountain sides.
At 15:35 we enter Den Chai where there is a large train yard and several tracks. Here we also get another snack and drink. Feels just like kindergarten all over again. Guess it is time for my afternoon nap.
Right before our stop at Chan Sen at 11:30, I notice harvesting machines in the fields around us. Must be a fairly wealthy part of farm country as this is some expensive equipment and there is a lot of it.
During this stop another train passes us heading south and we get our second meal, lunch, which consists of rice, a fish-paddy on top of the rice, a salad consisting of some "meat balls", sponge cake and water. A very Thai lunch but filling although the thing that is suppose to be fish leaves a bit to be desired.
I notice a very large Budha on a hillside off to the west of the train near the village of Ban Takhli. At 11:45 we pass through Huwai and there really is a noticeable change in the topology and the fields. Seems to be getting richer, lusher, with less people and far fewer houses. Even the size of the rice paddies seem to be increasing. The train's speed as increased as well through this less congested area, probably around 100 kilometers and hour.
Around noon before our stop in Nakhon Sawan, the hills start to form around use and it appears we are entering some type of valley with a long ridge to the east paralleling the tracks with a less defined area off to the west.
Nakhon Sawan is only mentionable as it appears to have quite a number of new homes built in large, housing estates. I also notice the first birch trees I have seen here.
13:00 - 14:45 Ta Phan Hin to Uttaradit
Ta Phan Hin seems like a fairly large town with houses overhanging the canal paralleling the tracks. After a freight train passes us heading south, we begin to move again.
At 13:15 we stop at the village of Prichit where we once again pick up many passengers. Still manage to hang onto my empty seat next to me.
At 13:40 we stop again at some place I am unsure of the name. Many get off here.
At the town of Phitsanulok, we stop again and let another passenger train pass us heading south to Bangkok. I notice a large hotel called the Topland. I also notice they ring a bell three times at each stop right before the train leaves and there is always one uniformed individual carrying a green and red flag that seems to be indicating when and if the train can proceed forward. Even in the smaller towns, there are usually two visible men in uniforms, one carrying the flags, signaling to us as we pass through.
At 14:20 we pass through Ban Khon.
At 14:25 we come to a stop in Phichai. Interesting place from what I can see with a 2 minute stop. As we start to pass out of the town, there appears a huge mansion off to the left. Somebody here has some significant money. There are also a lot of Telco towers in the area.
At 14:45 we stop in Uttaradit for 10 minutes. Long ridge of hills to the west which are very striking and tall over the valley. As the people move to get off the train, I notice a group of monks getting off here as well.
This seems to be a large town and has a very large train yard although I can't quite explain it, it seems odd. I have now noticed an increase of my uniforms and now am seeing a group of men with a different uniform and red arm bands. There is also a huge school complex here. For who and what I don't know as there are no signs that I can see that tell me what it is.
15:00 - Bandan - The Start of the Jungle Climb
As we start the climb into the jungle, I start taking more photos. This is definitely the second stage of the journey as for the past six and a half hours, the sites and terrain have been pretty much the same. That is all changing very fast.
The road that was along the tracks in this section of the trip would be an incredible road to wonder along on a motorbike. I'll have to remember to do that someday as it really is beautiful through here.
We pass through the first of three tunnels at 15:15 and than again at 15:20. The second tunnel is much longer than the first. At 15:25 we pass through the mountain town of Huai Rai without stopping and I notice rice growing from anywhere that seems flat and corn on any clearing on the mountain sides.
At 15:35 we enter Den Chai where there is a large train yard and several tracks. Here we also get another snack and drink. Feels just like kindergarten all over again. Guess it is time for my afternoon nap.
Bangkok to Chiang Mai by train (Part III)
11:30 - 12:10 Chan Sen to Nakon Sawan
Right before our stop at Chan Sen at 11:30, I notice harvesting machines in the fields around us. Must be a fairly wealthy part of farm country as this is some expensive equipment and there is a lot of it.
During this stop another train passes us heading south and we get our second meal, lunch, which consists of rice, a fish-paddy on top of the rice, a salad consisting of some "meat balls", sponge cake and water. A very Thai lunch but filling although the thing that is suppose to be fish leaves a bit to be desired.
I notice a very large Budha on a hillside off to the west of the train near the village of Ban Takhli. At 11:45 we pass through Huwai and there really is a noticeable change in the topology and the fields. Seems to be getting richer, lusher, with less people and far fewer houses. Even the size of the rice paddies seem to be increasing. The train's speed as increased as well through this less congested area, probably around 100 kilometers and hour.
Around noon before our stop in Nakhon Sawan, the hills start to form around use and it appears we are entering some type of valley with a long ridge to the east paralleling the tracks with a less defined area off to the west.
Nakhon Sawan is only mentionable as it appears to have quite a number of new homes built in large, housing estates. I also notice the first birch trees I have seen here.
13:00 - 14:45 Ta Phan Hin to Uttaradit
Ta Phan Hin seems like a fairly large town with houses overhanging the canal paralleling the tracks. After a freight train passes us heading south, we begin to move again.
At 13:15 we stop at the village of Prichit where we once again pick up many passengers. Still manage to hang onto my empty seat next to me.
At 13:40 we stop again at some place I am unsure of the name. Many get off here.
At the town of Phitsanulok, we stop again and let another passenger train pass us heading south to Bangkok. I notice a large hotel called the Topland. I also notice they ring a bell three times at each stop right before the train leaves and there is always one uniformed individual carrying a green and red flag that seems to be indicating when and if the train can proceed forward. Even in the smaller towns, there are usually two visible men in uniforms, one carrying the flags, signaling to us as we pass through.
At 14:20 we pass through Ban Khon.
At 14:25 we come to a stop in Phichai. Interesting place from what I can see with a 2 minute stop. As we start to pass out of the town, there appears a huge mansion off to the left. Somebody here has some significant money. There are also a lot of Telco towers in the area.
At 14:45 we stop in Uttaradit for 10 minutes. Long ridge of hills to the west which are very striking and tall over the valley. As the people move to get off the train, I notice a group of monks getting off here as well.
This seems to be a large town and has a very large train yard although I can't quite explain it, it seems odd. I have now noticed an increase of my uniforms and now am seeing a group of men with a different uniform and red arm bands. There is also a huge school complex here. For who and what I don't know as there are no signs that I can see that tell me what it is.
15:00 - Bandan - The Start of the Jungle Climb
As we start the climb into the jungle, I start taking more photos. This is definitely the second stage of the journey as for the past six and a half hours, the sites and terrain have been pretty much the same. That is all changing very fast.
The road that was along the tracks in this section of the trip would be an incredible road to wonder along on a motorbike. I'll have to remember to do that someday as it really is beautiful through here.
We pass through the first of three tunnels at 15:15 and than again at 15:20. The second tunnel is much longer than the first. At 15:25 we pass through the mountain town of Huai Rai without stopping and I notice rice growing from anywhere that seems flat and corn on any clearing on the mountain sides.
At 15:35 we enter Den Chai where there is a large train yard and several tracks. Here we also get another snack and drink. Feels just like kindergarten all over again. Guess it is time for my afternoon nap.
Right before our stop at Chan Sen at 11:30, I notice harvesting machines in the fields around us. Must be a fairly wealthy part of farm country as this is some expensive equipment and there is a lot of it.
During this stop another train passes us heading south and we get our second meal, lunch, which consists of rice, a fish-paddy on top of the rice, a salad consisting of some "meat balls", sponge cake and water. A very Thai lunch but filling although the thing that is suppose to be fish leaves a bit to be desired.
I notice a very large Budha on a hillside off to the west of the train near the village of Ban Takhli. At 11:45 we pass through Huwai and there really is a noticeable change in the topology and the fields. Seems to be getting richer, lusher, with less people and far fewer houses. Even the size of the rice paddies seem to be increasing. The train's speed as increased as well through this less congested area, probably around 100 kilometers and hour.
Around noon before our stop in Nakhon Sawan, the hills start to form around use and it appears we are entering some type of valley with a long ridge to the east paralleling the tracks with a less defined area off to the west.
Nakhon Sawan is only mentionable as it appears to have quite a number of new homes built in large, housing estates. I also notice the first birch trees I have seen here.
13:00 - 14:45 Ta Phan Hin to Uttaradit
Ta Phan Hin seems like a fairly large town with houses overhanging the canal paralleling the tracks. After a freight train passes us heading south, we begin to move again.
At 13:15 we stop at the village of Prichit where we once again pick up many passengers. Still manage to hang onto my empty seat next to me.
At 13:40 we stop again at some place I am unsure of the name. Many get off here.
At the town of Phitsanulok, we stop again and let another passenger train pass us heading south to Bangkok. I notice a large hotel called the Topland. I also notice they ring a bell three times at each stop right before the train leaves and there is always one uniformed individual carrying a green and red flag that seems to be indicating when and if the train can proceed forward. Even in the smaller towns, there are usually two visible men in uniforms, one carrying the flags, signaling to us as we pass through.
At 14:20 we pass through Ban Khon.
At 14:25 we come to a stop in Phichai. Interesting place from what I can see with a 2 minute stop. As we start to pass out of the town, there appears a huge mansion off to the left. Somebody here has some significant money. There are also a lot of Telco towers in the area.
At 14:45 we stop in Uttaradit for 10 minutes. Long ridge of hills to the west which are very striking and tall over the valley. As the people move to get off the train, I notice a group of monks getting off here as well.
This seems to be a large town and has a very large train yard although I can't quite explain it, it seems odd. I have now noticed an increase of my uniforms and now am seeing a group of men with a different uniform and red arm bands. There is also a huge school complex here. For who and what I don't know as there are no signs that I can see that tell me what it is.
15:00 - Bandan - The Start of the Jungle Climb
As we start the climb into the jungle, I start taking more photos. This is definitely the second stage of the journey as for the past six and a half hours, the sites and terrain have been pretty much the same. That is all changing very fast.
The road that was along the tracks in this section of the trip would be an incredible road to wonder along on a motorbike. I'll have to remember to do that someday as it really is beautiful through here.
We pass through the first of three tunnels at 15:15 and than again at 15:20. The second tunnel is much longer than the first. At 15:25 we pass through the mountain town of Huai Rai without stopping and I notice rice growing from anywhere that seems flat and corn on any clearing on the mountain sides.
At 15:35 we enter Den Chai where there is a large train yard and several tracks. Here we also get another snack and drink. Feels just like kindergarten all over again. Guess it is time for my afternoon nap.
Bangkok to Chiang Mai by train (Part II)
08:50 - 09:15 We have stopped again but it appears to be at some train yard where they appear to be repairing older equipment and rail cars. The sign calls this place "Bang Sue Junction". If I was a train hobbyist, this would probably be a fun place to wonder about in.
It also amazes me how difficult to get away from cellular phone's ringing and all those very loud conversations. Gotten use to it on the Skytrain but I guess I did have some type of fantasy of this being the "Orient Express" but that illusion is lost immediately with the ringing and musical renditions constantly be played.
Just before 9AM I start to see the massive concrete pilings of incomplete section of the Skytrain system. I have often wondered about this section and where it went. I lovely refer to is as the "road to nowhere" whenever I come upon it. It is amazing how massive the pilings are. They appear to parallel the tracks for some distance.
At 09:00 we stop at the Bang Khen (pronounced Bang Ken) rail station. If I had known this was a stop, I would have come here instead as it far closer to the apartment and the Ari BTS station than going to the main station downtown.
We than proceed past other stations with names such as Lak Si and arrive at Don Muang Station at 09:15.
09:15 Don Muang Train Station - Bangkok Airport's Train Station which is also the same name as the airport.
At this stop there is a large group of individuals that board the train. There are obviously the expected foreigners with their backpacks coming from the airport, a group of colorfully, clothed Monks, an assortment of Thais and soon the seats start to fill up but I appear to be left with an empty seat next to me.
You can see all types of facilities supporting the airport as well as the very large Amari Airport Hotel which is across the street from the train station.
09:20 - The 1st of several free meals and snacks
At this point we get served a free, breakfast meal/snack depending on your perspective. I think most Thais would call it a meal, most Americans a snack.
While eating my meal and enjoying some coffee, I start to notice the change in scenery outside. Actually starting to birds using the pools of water and the beginning of rice paddies.
At 09:50 we pass through the larger town of Ayutthaya and at 10:00 we come to a complete stop next to a large complex of the Italia/Thai Company. Appears we might be waiting for another gate to drop before moving forward.
10:30 - An abrupt stop and a long wait
In what seems like nowhere, the train comes to a rather abrupt halt and we set for the next 20 minutes. Funny as I look around and wonder if something has happened that there is nothing around us. Nothing. No people, no roads, no villages.
The train keeps "revving" its' engine up and than powering down and than doing the same thing over and over again. Without knowing what is going on, it is almost like we are "stuck". After 20 minutes of this very disconcerting process and noise, we start to move forward.
It also amazes me how difficult to get away from cellular phone's ringing and all those very loud conversations. Gotten use to it on the Skytrain but I guess I did have some type of fantasy of this being the "Orient Express" but that illusion is lost immediately with the ringing and musical renditions constantly be played.
Just before 9AM I start to see the massive concrete pilings of incomplete section of the Skytrain system. I have often wondered about this section and where it went. I lovely refer to is as the "road to nowhere" whenever I come upon it. It is amazing how massive the pilings are. They appear to parallel the tracks for some distance.
At 09:00 we stop at the Bang Khen (pronounced Bang Ken) rail station. If I had known this was a stop, I would have come here instead as it far closer to the apartment and the Ari BTS station than going to the main station downtown.
We than proceed past other stations with names such as Lak Si and arrive at Don Muang Station at 09:15.
09:15 Don Muang Train Station - Bangkok Airport's Train Station which is also the same name as the airport.
At this stop there is a large group of individuals that board the train. There are obviously the expected foreigners with their backpacks coming from the airport, a group of colorfully, clothed Monks, an assortment of Thais and soon the seats start to fill up but I appear to be left with an empty seat next to me.
You can see all types of facilities supporting the airport as well as the very large Amari Airport Hotel which is across the street from the train station.
09:20 - The 1st of several free meals and snacks
At this point we get served a free, breakfast meal/snack depending on your perspective. I think most Thais would call it a meal, most Americans a snack.
While eating my meal and enjoying some coffee, I start to notice the change in scenery outside. Actually starting to birds using the pools of water and the beginning of rice paddies.
At 09:50 we pass through the larger town of Ayutthaya and at 10:00 we come to a complete stop next to a large complex of the Italia/Thai Company. Appears we might be waiting for another gate to drop before moving forward.
10:30 - An abrupt stop and a long wait
In what seems like nowhere, the train comes to a rather abrupt halt and we set for the next 20 minutes. Funny as I look around and wonder if something has happened that there is nothing around us. Nothing. No people, no roads, no villages.
The train keeps "revving" its' engine up and than powering down and than doing the same thing over and over again. Without knowing what is going on, it is almost like we are "stuck". After 20 minutes of this very disconcerting process and noise, we start to move forward.
Bangkok to Chiang Mai by train (Part I)
I decided to get away from the heat and noise of Bangkok and head up to Chiang Mai by train for a few days. I had never taken this trip by train before having gone up to Chiang Mai from Bangkok in the early 1990s by air, so this was to be another experience.
A great article about Chiang Mai's old city.
Another great article about taking a boat trip down the Mekong River in the Golden Triangle.
As I started taking notes for my journal on the way up, I just couldn't help but be amazed at the quality, comfort and beauty of the day train (08:25 Express) that I was on. I thought to myself things have sure changed in recent years. until I took the night train back.
It seems that even though there are several trains during the day and at night in both directions, the quality of trains, even though the price is the same, is radically different. Even the steward on the night train back admitted the difference is great.
I guess one really had no right to 'complain' which I am not, it just shocked me to have had such a comfortable, relaxing and quiet experience on the way up and than to turn around and experience what I refer to as the 'night train from hell'. The story begins
20 June, Bangkok to Chiang Mai Journal Notes
Express - Day Train to Chiang Mai - I awoke this AM with the new day's light coming into the bedroom from the balcony door witnessing once again another beautiful day's sunrise. Seemed like a perfect day for a train trip.
As I packed a simple bag and got some research materials together, I checked my e-mail. It seems hotmail is terribly slow again which has been the case for the past three days. Yahoo was offline last week and since the other web sites are responding in a normal fashion, it must be an issue specific to these email services.
On the way to the train station, I stopped off at my favorite cafe at the base of the Soi Ari BTS station, had a couple cups of coffee and read the Bangkok Post. As I didn't want to be late for the train and not knowing exactly where or how long it would take to get there on a weekday morning, I headed out on the Skytrain at little past 07:30 with a ticket stating an 08:25 departure time.
The travel agency I am using now is near the Asoke BTS station and they have been more than helpful in my recent flight to Amsterdam and with the purchase of this 540 baht, air con/second class, train ticket. They have a separate ticketing department for train travel upstairs and the woman was nice enough to write out a note in Thai telling where and when I needed to be at the train station that I could hand to the Taxi driver. She also indicated to me that the Siam Center Station was the closest BTS station to the train station and as it turned out, from the time I left the Siam BTS station to the front of the train was only 18 minutes and 41 baht. I keep using the word 'amazing' when I refer to getting around Bangkok anymore as the Skytrain allows you to do things and go places and have flexibility no even dreamed of only a few years ago.
08:28 Train Departures the Railway Station
State Railway of Thailand - call (02)225-0300
As the train pulls out and moves from the yard, I am immediately struck with the sea of humanity living within inches of the both the moving train and the tracks. Everyplace your eyes gaze there is something, either in, around, under or on top of an object, whether manmade or nature.
It appears that leaving Bangkok is a series of starts and stop, similar to driving. They don't appear to coordinate the train crossing signal with the road signals and it does not appear to have priority as we are constantly stopping and waiting for the signals to change, a gate to go down and than we proceed forward.
As we pass into an area where the tracks are paralleling a 'ditch' places between the tracks and the road, it is once again a sight of contrast and contradictions. The area itself is trimmed and trees, plants and flowers have been planted to obviously make an attempt to hide the putrid mess that lies and is flowing in the ditch. I don't even think the word 'pollution' can be used as you have to have something to pollute, this is just an open cesspool.
08:42 Ticket Checked
Right before our first stop at the Samsen Station, my ticket is checked by a very official looking man. Prior to this I have been watching the 5 'stewardesses' directly in front of me chatter away, put on their makeup and the start of preparing snacks for later on. I am also wondering at this point what "express" is being defined as and how many actual stops we will make over the next 11 ours.
NOTE: As it turned out, this train provides four snacks/meals along the 11 hour trip for free. NOTHING on the night train was free and I was shocked later on to learn that I had to pay for the orange drink that was free before. Same class ticket on the same train system, just going the opposite direction.
A great article about Chiang Mai's old city.
Another great article about taking a boat trip down the Mekong River in the Golden Triangle.
As I started taking notes for my journal on the way up, I just couldn't help but be amazed at the quality, comfort and beauty of the day train (08:25 Express) that I was on. I thought to myself things have sure changed in recent years. until I took the night train back.
It seems that even though there are several trains during the day and at night in both directions, the quality of trains, even though the price is the same, is radically different. Even the steward on the night train back admitted the difference is great.
I guess one really had no right to 'complain' which I am not, it just shocked me to have had such a comfortable, relaxing and quiet experience on the way up and than to turn around and experience what I refer to as the 'night train from hell'. The story begins
20 June, Bangkok to Chiang Mai Journal Notes
Express - Day Train to Chiang Mai - I awoke this AM with the new day's light coming into the bedroom from the balcony door witnessing once again another beautiful day's sunrise. Seemed like a perfect day for a train trip.
As I packed a simple bag and got some research materials together, I checked my e-mail. It seems hotmail is terribly slow again which has been the case for the past three days. Yahoo was offline last week and since the other web sites are responding in a normal fashion, it must be an issue specific to these email services.
On the way to the train station, I stopped off at my favorite cafe at the base of the Soi Ari BTS station, had a couple cups of coffee and read the Bangkok Post. As I didn't want to be late for the train and not knowing exactly where or how long it would take to get there on a weekday morning, I headed out on the Skytrain at little past 07:30 with a ticket stating an 08:25 departure time.
The travel agency I am using now is near the Asoke BTS station and they have been more than helpful in my recent flight to Amsterdam and with the purchase of this 540 baht, air con/second class, train ticket. They have a separate ticketing department for train travel upstairs and the woman was nice enough to write out a note in Thai telling where and when I needed to be at the train station that I could hand to the Taxi driver. She also indicated to me that the Siam Center Station was the closest BTS station to the train station and as it turned out, from the time I left the Siam BTS station to the front of the train was only 18 minutes and 41 baht. I keep using the word 'amazing' when I refer to getting around Bangkok anymore as the Skytrain allows you to do things and go places and have flexibility no even dreamed of only a few years ago.
08:28 Train Departures the Railway Station
State Railway of Thailand - call (02)225-0300
As the train pulls out and moves from the yard, I am immediately struck with the sea of humanity living within inches of the both the moving train and the tracks. Everyplace your eyes gaze there is something, either in, around, under or on top of an object, whether manmade or nature.
It appears that leaving Bangkok is a series of starts and stop, similar to driving. They don't appear to coordinate the train crossing signal with the road signals and it does not appear to have priority as we are constantly stopping and waiting for the signals to change, a gate to go down and than we proceed forward.
As we pass into an area where the tracks are paralleling a 'ditch' places between the tracks and the road, it is once again a sight of contrast and contradictions. The area itself is trimmed and trees, plants and flowers have been planted to obviously make an attempt to hide the putrid mess that lies and is flowing in the ditch. I don't even think the word 'pollution' can be used as you have to have something to pollute, this is just an open cesspool.
08:42 Ticket Checked
Right before our first stop at the Samsen Station, my ticket is checked by a very official looking man. Prior to this I have been watching the 5 'stewardesses' directly in front of me chatter away, put on their makeup and the start of preparing snacks for later on. I am also wondering at this point what "express" is being defined as and how many actual stops we will make over the next 11 ours.
NOTE: As it turned out, this train provides four snacks/meals along the 11 hour trip for free. NOTHING on the night train was free and I was shocked later on to learn that I had to pay for the orange drink that was free before. Same class ticket on the same train system, just going the opposite direction.
Meandering Mekong: boat trip down the Mekong River in the Golden Triangle
Floating through the storied Golden Triangle on a river bargeA giant four-storey building, towering above the tree line on the Golden Triangle, gradually became a dwarf as the barge pulled upstream at 10 knots per hour.
Inside that casino-hotel, sitting on a spit of land where the Ruak river meets the Mekong, time come screeching to a halt.
Outside, the muddy river waits for no man.
At dawn, we climbed aboard the 100-ton combined cargo-passenger ship, and embarked on a 343km journey from Chiang Saen port in Chiang Rai to Jinghong in China.
Located on Burmese soil, the casino, owned by a number of influential Thai politicians, was what many travellers on the Mekong river trip liked to think of as the final frontier of the worldly world.
Next stop: "Saint City". A suspension bridge crossing the Mekong river in the middle of Jinghong town. Heading north, the lush green forests of Laos appeared on the right side of the barge. Burma lay on the left side. Not long after the casino was out of sight, the barge arrived at Wat Kruba Boonchoom.
Here, faith was borderless. The revered monk has never closed his temple's door on devout Thai Buddhists even when relations between Vientiane and Bangkok turned sour.
Small chedi, or affectionately referred to by locals as "instant pagodas", dot the river bank, standing in silent testimony to the Buddhist faith. Visitors, mostly from Laos, Burma and Thailand, build them in a single day to make merit for the next life.
From Burma, the barge took passengers to catch a glimpse of Lao shores at the port town of Muang Mo, a transit point for cargo from Thailand and China. Captain Cho Lai navigates the barge through rapids along the river.
Opposite Muang Mo is, officially, the Burmese port of Wan Pung. Unofficially, it is a contraband haven.
Untaxed goods, mostly electrical appliances and farm commodities, are unloaded here and taken to warehouses in Burma's Tachilek town adjacent to Mae Sai district in Chiang Rai, for further smuggling across the Thai border.
Mae Salong Tours in Chiang Rai has become the first Thai operator to join the Mekong river voyage phenomenon.
A family business owned by Thanomsak Sereewichayaswat, a veterinarian and former leader of a pro-democracy student group more than two decades ago, has gone up and down the Mekong river countless times.
Tai Lue girls pour water in a special performance to welcome guests.
Finding new thrills and spills every time he made the trip, the vet decided to share such experiences with others. The company has two 30-seat speed boats that can travel from Chiang Saen to Jinghong in one day.
For a group tour, a three-decked steel barge, having nine rooms for passengers, is used.
Although nothing on the ship was close to luxurious, the food was plentiful, and good, too.
After lunch, the passengers, beginning to feel indifferent to the endless views of dense tropical forest, prepared for one of life on the river's little excitements.
Some looked on in awe, some cheered and others prayed as Captain Cho Lai, with the help of his three courageous assistants, carefully steered us away from the rapids scattered along this part of the river for more than 100km.
Tang Or and Nam Lor rapids were soon passed uneventfully. While some on board were wondering if they were now the only group of living things left on earth, signs of life emerged as the barge approached hilltribe communities and, later, military camps. Barges running along the Mekong river mostly belong to Chinese.
On the river, the struggle of man and machine against nature continued.
At Sam Sao rapids, as our 27-year-old Chinese captain was zigzagging to avoid big rock hazards, many made sure life jackets were within their reach.
Notorious for its strong currents and whirlpools, this bend in the river has long been known as a cemetery for countless ships that have struck the rocks and sank, and the river bed is littered with the bones of Burmese and Lao rivermen.
This time around, our barge shot through Sam Sao rapids in one piece.
Already 50km from Chiang Saen, the river becomes wider. Waiting downriver to greet survivors of the muddy maelstrom is Ban Pa Khao in Laos, a collection of tribal villages of Tai Leu and Akha tribespeople. What was once an American air base during World War Two can be seen as a small collection of buildings and an unused airstrip from onboard the barge.
The tribespeople have traditionally been friendly to visitors, even to crews whose ships were stranded on the banks because of dry season water levels and who inevitably wore out their welcome.
A so-called "Instant pagoda" on the banks of Mekong river near Wat Kruba Boonchoom, a place where the faith of the Thais, Lao and Burmese transcends borders.
Not far from Ban Pa Khao is a place called Khung Saen Pee (curve of a hundred thousand ghosts), named after an old local tradition of floating the bodies of their dead loved ones on the river.
Excitement returned to our Mekong travels as the barge shot over row after row of rushing rapids-Chiang Dao, Wang Wid, Tang Pang Lang and Tang Pang-before arriving at the big Lao port of Xing Kok where there is a road to Luang Nam Tha bordering China, built by China.
On the left bank is Burma's Wan Jiang port which is also a major shipbuilding area and a cattle export hub.
Highlight of the first day of the trip was a passage through the rock-strewn channel at Tang Salam, dubbed the King of the Rapids, which is about 120km from Chiang Saen.
The sun set shortly after the barge dodged the danger of whipping currents caused by differences in water levels before finally mooring at Muang Sing in Laos for a night's sleep.
Captain Cho Lai, having been venturing up and down this "Mother of the Rivers" for 10 years, and although familiar with all the charted shoals and rapids, agreed the Mekong never runs out of challenges.
Day two: The river did not change much. But after being part of an endless tug-of-war between the ship and the Mekong's inexorable current for the length of one day-and somehow emerging the winner-the maze of rocks and the rushing water struck fear into no one, and now were more of a nuisance than a menace.
About 182km from Chiang Saen, the barge arrived at Sob Luay, a port in Burma which is controlled by the United Wa State Army. From here, passengers can get off their ship and travel a further 170km by land to Jinghong in China's Yunnan province.
Also, there is a road linking Sob Luay with a Chinese border town of Ta Lor, where visitors can find tickets to trans-sexual cabaret shows like the famous Tiffany and Alcazar in Pattaya.
The Chinese performers were trained by Thai entertainers from Chiang Mai as part of a "cultural exchange".
For those who had learned to love the languid intricacies of river navigation, they could opt to stay onboard, passing through Long Som and Krai rapids before reaching the upper Mekong Triangle where the borders of China, Laos and Burma meet. There, China has Guan Lei as a major port.
After Guan Lei is Galanpa, an old settlement of the Tai Leu tribe.
The last leg of the 31-hour trip covers a 51km route from Galanpa to Jinghong.
Jinghong is an important town in southwestern Yunnan. The town boasts a vast tropical forest with more than 5,000 kinds of trees. Other major attractions are cultural centres and botanical gardens.
On the way back to Chiang Saen on the same barge after seeing and touring Jinghong, the thrill of river barge travel remained the same.
Travel tips
How to get there: Thai Airways International (tel 02-628-2000) offers several flights to Chiang Rai daily. As well, air-conditioned buses leave Bangkok for Chiang Saen daily from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal (Mor Chit). Call 02-936-2852, 02-936-2866.
Chiang Saen is located near the Mekong River. From downtown Chiang Rai, it can be reached by Highway 1016 and 110 via Mae Sai.
Tourists get on board at Chiang Saen port for the river trip to Jinghong in China. By air-conditioned speed boat, it takes one day to reach Jinghong. But by ordinary boat (with private guest rooms) passengers have to stay overnight onboard.
Tours cost 12,000-15,000 baht round trip. For 20,000 baht, a Thai Airways International jet takes you to Kunming from where you return by boat.
A Chinese visa is required for entering Jinghong. Visa fee at the Chinese Embassy in Bangkok is 550 baht. Processing takes about three days.
Mae Salong Tour Co can organise a tour on demand. Call Mae Salong Tour office in Chiang Rai, at 053-716-505-6 or in Bangkok at 02-279-9983.
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