Haast Pass Trip

We decided to give the knees some time to heal and headed out in the car towards the West Coast, or at least as far as Haast Pass which is the main route from here to the West Coast. We have been intending to come out here by bike, but Makarora itself is about 60 kilometres from Wanaka so I had been trying to save it for better weather and fitness.

Taking the car meant that we could just throw our raincoats and the camera in the back and head off without too much preparation. The route we took is shown in green on the map and I have labelled each place we stopped with a number.

Simon drove from Plantation Road all the way to Thunder Creek Falls with just one stop alongside Lake Hawea for me to get a quick photo of the lake. On the drive we passed two major sets of road works where the road has been undermined by flooded streams, it looks as though there is still some pretty serious work to be done there.

We drove through Makarora past the DOC1 office and Makarora Tourist Centre2. Our custom wasn’t missed by DOC as the office was closed despite it being 11:30 on a Saturday morning. The drive up the Makarora valley and over Haast Pass was suitably scenic and when we got over the top of the pass we were immediately in some serious waterfall territory.

The West Coast of the South Island of New Zealand is famous for the quantity of rain and the waterfalls show by their number rather than their size just how much rain and snow these mountains have received recently. The road becomes narrow and treacherous past the pass with numerous warnings of slips and runaway cars to unsettle drivers.

Our first stop was at Thunder Creek Falls where a two minute walk takes large numbers of tourists down to look at Thunder Creek falling in to the Haast River. The falls are very spectacular and popular. There were several cars and a tour bus stopped at the falls while we were. SH6 is the main route taken by tour buses making a loop journey around the South Island and we saw more buses in the course of the day then at any time since leaving London. The tourist season has not really started here so I guess we will need to get more used to them. I took over the driving for our return journey to give Simon a chance to admire the scenery. I still have a huge dislike for driving but I am trying to make sure that I drive more regularly to give Simon a chance to watch the scenery rather than the road.

Our second stop was the Gates of Haast Bridge where the road crosses the river above a steep gorge. The bridge, like all the bridges we cross today is a one lane bridge, which for anyone who has not seen one is just a bridge with one lane. These are always marked as to which traffic direction has to give way but as they are unknown to many tourists there is always a lottery feel to them. We saw the aftermath of a number of one lane bridge accidents on the way to Cardrona this year. There are a couple of paths leading down towards to river from just before the bridge so we managed to get a couple of good pictures of the river. When you look at these pictures it is difficult to get a feel of the scale as the boulders in the river are immense.

Third on our list was the Fantail Falls also just a couple of minutes walk from the road side, this was not turning out to be a very athletic day at all. We managed to spend a few minutes looking at the waterfalls before the arrival of several cars and another tour bus (that nearly boxed us into our parking place).
In an effort to avoid any more tourist buses we decided to visit the Blue Pools next. The Blue Pools are a fifteen minute walk from the road and across a suspension bridge over the Makarora River. The title is a bit misleading as currently it is only one pool, this pool is scooped from the Makarora riverbed by the Blue River and is a large quantity of deep, clear and very blue water with several large, sleepy looking trout swimming in the bottom. There is a track from the Makarora River leading up to Camp Flat on the Blue River and the four hour walk may be worthwhile one day in summer if we take a fishing line.

By the time we had finished these visits it was after two o’clock and we were regretting not packing any lunch. We drove back to Makarora and stopped at the Makarora Tourist Centre to get some food. The tearooms were just emptying after serving lunch to a tour bus of tourists and there wasn’t much food left in the sandwich counter or pie warmer but Simon selected a bacon and brie panini and L&P3, while I got a cheese scone and a coffee. Lunch could not be said to have been an unqualified success as the cheese scone was stale so I swapped it for a fresher date one and the panini had so little filling that Simon was unable to confirm even what type of cheese it was. The setting at Makarora is beautiful and there is a ready made market with all the people from the campground and cabins but it is a food experience that I will not be repeating and I don’t think I am alone in this.

We drove home along the shores of Lake Wanaka just stopping once to see what the facilities are like at the Boundary creek campground. It may be better to stay here than at Makarora as it is cheaper, right on the lake and the food at Makarora is not enough to draw us back there.

Driving back along the edge of Lake Hawea I had one of those driving experiences which are a big factor in my dislike of driving. Earlier I mentioned the bits of road that have been washed away and road works along the road and you can see from the map that the road stays close to the side of the lake. This means that the road is fairly undulating and has several sharp corners. I’m not a particularly fast driver at the best of times and tend to obey the speed limits and corner speeds on unfamiliar roads. The scene set, you can now imagine me driving cautiously along at just below the speed limit in our lumbering old Terrano when the driver of a ‘Kiwi Experience’4 bus decides I am not driving fast enough and drives right on my bumper along this road. The road is too narrow and windy for overtaking and my usual approach would be to pull over at the next safe spot and let them past. I can’t do that this time as, because of the corners, we cannot see an appropriate stopping place until we are almost past it. The bus overtook me in the middle of the intersection into Hawea instead. Enough of my terrible driving, we arrived safely back in Wanaka with me determined to make our next journey by bike.

Punakaiki Trip

Simon and I set out from Wanaka on Thursday, coincidentally Halloween. We drove into the wind along Lake Hawea and it was raining by the time we got to Makarora so we had a head start on the West Coast weather. We drove through Haast without stopping but took a look at the view from Knights Point lookout. We stopped for a break at Lake Paringa and ate the remaining slices of Treacle Tart from the previous nights dinner.

Then on to Fox Glacier for a walk up to the terminal face. The Fox and Franz Josef glaciers are a rare example of glaciers flowing down almost to the coast and as such are easily accessible. You can see in the pictures where the river flows out of an ice cave at the base of the glacier.

You can climb up onto the glaciers with a guide but we decided to spend our travel budget on large meals and soft beds and leave the ice climbing for another time. It started pouring with rain when we had just started walking back to the car and so the upper halves of us stayed dry as we had our cycling jackets on but our trousers got soaked and we had to change when we got back to the car.

A stop in Fox Glacier township and lunch at the Cook Saddle Café and Saloon filled us up and warmed us a little bit too. This is an American themed bar and restaurant with mostly burgers, sandwiches and salads on the menu. Simon managed to avoid ordering nachos in a stunning display of self restraint.

We drove on to Franz Josef and got a room for the night at Glow worm cottages which aren’t cottages but a motel complex. Spent the last of the afternoon drying our clothes and drinking wine. We decided skip the offer of the $3 BBQ and instead have dinner at the Landing Café. We shared a garlic bread to start, Simon had sirloin steak with garlic and mushroom sauce and I had lamb rump with pesto and couscous. Drank a bottle of Lindauer with dinner and then shared an apple tart to finish. Simon got bitten by his first sand fly during the meal and we resolved to be more thorough with our insect repellent applications. Our room was comfortable but our nights sleep was broken at 1:30am by Franz Josef having a sizeable percentage of its four metre annual rainfall accompanied by thunder and lightning.


On Friday morning we got up to find that Franz Josef had not washed away over night and so we filled ourselves with muesli for breakfast and covered ourselves in insect repellent. We then walked up to Franz Josef glacier. The terminal face of the glacier is not as accessible as Fox Glacier and so we had a look at what we could and then headed back. We stopped at Peters Pool, which is a small kettle lake (see picture right), on the way back to Franz Josef and then bought some French bread cream cheese and oranges to take for our lunch to Okarito. Keri Hulme, author of The Bone People, is probably Okarito’s most famous resident but it is the scenery and wildlife which draws people here. We first walked up the Okarito Trig walk to get a great view of Okarito lagoon (left) where we should have got great view of mountains including Mount Cook but it was very cloudy. As we walked back down the sky started to clear and we continued on an old pack track for another hour to three mile lagoon where we stopped for lunch in the now blazing sunshine We had been advised that the Okarito coast walk was able to be attempted an hour either side of low tide. It was an hour and a half before low tide so we decided to go anyway as we could just stop on the rocks if the waves were still too high. The coast proved to be a great example of how wild the West Coast can be, with huge surf and massive boulders stretching right out into the waves and we needed to do a lot of climbing around the rocks as the sea still had a good distance to recede. During our clambering we tried to watch out for seals as they may chase or attack people who come too close. I just managed to surprise a baby seal which was probably scared of us. It took us about an hour to walk back to the car along the coast in the hot spring sunshine.

The next stop was in Harihari for some diesel and a surprise for Simon as the woman in the petrol station complimented him on his Mr. T t-shirt. We got some coffee and L&P and drove on to Hokitika for the night. In Hokitika we stayed at the Jade Court Motor Lodge. We got into our unit, had a hot bath and then the rain started. We waited an hour for the rain to subside, then put our rain jackets on and extra trousers in the backpack. We managed to stay dry enough on the walk into town that we didn’t need to change at the restaurant.

We had dinner at the Café de Paris which was participating in the Monteiths West Coast Wild Food Challenge, which is a competition to match wild foods with Monteiths beer. In an example of chivalry, Simon forwent the option of smoked eel as a starter and instead we shared antipasto. Simon had Denver leg of goat with horopito from the wild food menu and I had venison with blueberries from the regular menu. We both had crepes suzette for dessert and had a delicious Barossa valley red with the meal and then Saints semillon with pudding.

The next day our breakfast was just toast and fruit and then we drove north for our first surprise. Simon is used now to one lane bridges but there are a couple of long one lane bridges between Hokitika and Greymouth which are shared with the railway line. We had a beautiful clear and sunny day to be head ing off into though, and a short stop at Rapahoe and look at the wild coastline. This part of the West Coast seems to be where old buses come to die and many houses have a dead bus in the garden. They could be the West Coasts answer to sleep-outs.

The picture above left shows how far south in New Zealand the Nikau palms grow naturally and hopefully gives a feel for the beautiful sunny day we had to enjoy Punakaiki. The picture left shows the famous ‘pancake rocks’ of Punakaiki.

Punakaiki is famous for the pancake rocks and blow- holes and has become a lot more developed since I last visited as a child, they even have fences now to stop you falling in. We had arrived after high tide when the blow holes are at their best, but still managed to get a great view of the blow holes in action. High tide had been just after nine this morning so we decided to come back at 10 o’clock tomorrow to get a good view of the blow holes.

As breakfast had been small, we stopped at one of the cafes near the blow holes for milkshake, tea and quiche. Thus fortified we were off for a walk along the Truman Track to an amazing little beach with thundering waves and waterfall. We got plenty of pictures here, but none that really capture the scale of the two metre high breakers. Standing there it was quite easy to believe that there was nothing out there but ocean until you reach Africa. Heading back to Punakaiki we visited the Punakaiki Cavern which is a cave which you can explore if you have a torch. Simon was disappointed that he only saw one glow worm.

Staying at Punakaiki Rocks Hotel south of the rocks on a wild beach and we arrive just in time to get some lunch, I had a lovely warm potato salad with loads of feta and pine nuts, Simon had pasta with Blackball chorizo, mussels and a tomato and chilli sauce. Blackball is an old gold mining settlement near Greymouth which has one pub and a now famous salami making company. Simon spent most of the rest of the afternoon dozing until I managed to get him out for a walk along the beach to the river where we looked at the white baiters and paddled in the ferocious, freezing surf. Dinner was a feast of scallops to start and then Simon had Warehou with loads of chilli and I had a rib eye steak, I had a strawberry and yoghurt mousse for dessert and Simon had Kapiti cheeses. We shared a bottle of something delicious but now forgotten with the meal.

We had a peaceful nights sleep and then I had blueberry pancakes for breakfast and Simon had a miners breakfast which was English muffin, poached eggs, hash browns, sausage, bacon, tomatoes and mushrooms. By 8 o’clock we were wedged into canoes and kayaking on the Pororari River. There were a few white baiters out down by the sea but as we paddled up the river there was nobody else around and I watched a bird dive into the water and rise up again with a mouthful of white bait. The season is nearly over and I hadn’t had any of New Zealand’s strangest seasonal delicacy yet this visit and vowed to try and get some soon.

Due to the recent rains, we were eventually defeated by the current flowing through the rapids upstream and so we paddled back down the river and out into lagoon as the tide was coming in. There were waves breaking over the sand bar as we returned the kayaks and headed back to blowholes for high tide.

We drove south to Hokitika and stopped there to visit the aquarium where Simon fed the eels, some of which were two metres long. I bought whitebait fritters for lunch and was really disappointed as they had hardly any whitebait in them and loads of stodgy batter. We stopped just past Lake Ianthe to see a giant Matai tree which is apparently 1000 years old.

Just north Harihari, at the bridge over the Wanganui River, is a small side road. We drove up there for a couple of kilometres and over an old bridge. There is a short track down to the river and then we walked down the river bank almost to where the next creek comes in to reach the Amethyst Hot Springs just bubbling up out of the ground.

There are several small pools dug but someone was already in the best looking one so we moved down the river another 50 metres and found a dug pool which was too hot so we opened it out into a pool that got some river water, stripped off and bathed. No smell of sulphur, just lovely hot water bubbling out of the river sands.

This is bliss, better than any spa or commercial springs. The only difficulty came on getting out as our insect repellant is not waterproof and we could not get dressed fast enough to stop being bitten by the hordes of sand flies. Went drove back to Fox Glacier and booked into the Rainforest Motel and then took the car to the glacier viewpoint on the other side of the Fox River. The view from there would only be worthwhile if you were not prepared to walk up to the glacier. There is a small marked warm spring next to this road but it is right on the road so I could not imagine enjoying bathing in it. We had dinner at Café Neve and shared a delicious pizza bread, then Simon had wild boar from the Monteiths Wild Food menu and I had chicken with pasta and chickpeas. We had a bit of a beer night with Simon drinking Monteiths Celtic and me having Steinlager. We shared ice-cream for dessert which was delicious but unnecessary.

In the morning we got up and ate muesli, then went for a walk around Lake Matheson. Lake Matheson is famed for the reflections of Mount Cook in the surface, and the reflections were amazing but Mount Cook was hidden by cloud. We drive home with just a brief stop for a bagel in Haast and got home early afternoon having driven 1126kms and had a fantastic time.

The Rail Trail Return

Once we have recovered from Christmas day it is time to start the journey back to Wanaka. It is only on a Sunday that the Taieri Gorge Railway runs through to Middlemarch so on the 29th of December we board the train once more. The scenery is absolutely stunning on the train and when you see the tunnels and viaducts built into the stony hills you realise how hard this would all have been to build.

We are intending to be back in Wanaka by the fourth or fifth of January so we have several days back in our cycling clothes and on the bikes to look forward to. Rather than ride in the late afternoon heat we stay at Blind Billy’s Holiday Camp in Middlemarch for the night. When we arrive there is only one other occupant although there are a few more tents by the time we have finished our dinner. The kitchen is a converted railway carriage and there are lots of old railway signs about.

In the morning we are packed up and pedalling along the Otago Central Rail Trail before eight o’clock. As we have cycled the trail in reverse we know that we have an uphill morning with lots of gravel and stones to pedal across. We take several breaks to snack on dried fruit and nuts as we want this to be a pretty gentle mornings riding.

Shortly before Tiroiti we pass through our only tunnel today, the Price’s Creek Tunnel. We have a small torch with us but this tunnel is short enough that you can see the other end once you are half way through anyway. Once we are through the tunnel it is a short ride to the place by the Taieri River where we will camp tonight. In the picture above you can see the new tent we bought in Dunedin, it is a Macpac Stellar and has been a great purchase. We spent the afternoon fishing but with no success and had tuna from a packet with our pasta for dinner instead. During the afternoon Simon spotted a large swarm of bees making their way down the gorge which was pretty amazing to see.

In the morning we are up and away before eight again with 24kms uphill to Ranfurly where we reward ourselves with milkshakes and a roll. I choose a route using the back roads to avoid traffic and we have a hot ride over dusty hills to Naseby and the Larchview Holiday Park. The camp ground is full and there are thousands of people in Naseby for New Years Eve. As we pitch our tent we feel out of synch with the other holiday-makers with their house sized tents, full sets of garden furniture and gas barbecues. We have lunch at the Royal Hotel, one of the two pubs in Naseby, and then a swim in the swimming dam. Dinner is early at the Ancient Briton as we think that the pubs will fill up pretty quickly in the evening and we are in bed by 9:30pm on New Years Eve missing the fireworks, band and other entertainments.

We are up early in the morning for another rice breakfast and then a ride in Naseby Forest before the sun gets too hot. By lunchtime there are no ice-creams left in the Naseby shops and it is blisteringly hot. After lunch we retreat back to the swimming dam and then nap until the heat is mostly gone. We still feel pretty out of synch with the others in the camp ground but it is difficult to know if we envy them their furniture of loathe them for their taste in music.

Waking up to know that we are leaving Naseby is a joy. We will come back for more mountain biking in the forest but wait until it is quieter. We enjoy the silence as we race down the hills towards SH85 and make fantastic time on the sealed roads. We pass again through Wedderburn on our way to the St Bathans loop road.

This side of the loop road to St Bathans is unsealed and dusty, we climb the hills in increasing heat until by the time we get to St Bathans we are exhausted and thirsty. There are loads of people here and most of them have come in their cars from Naseby and have driven past us on the dusty
hills heading up to St Bathans as well.

We are staying at the Vulcan Hotel which is the only pub in St Bathans. The staff fluctuate between being helpful and surly, so we unpack our bags with some unease. Lunch and then a swim in the Blue Lake help relax us a little. The Blue Lake at St Bathans was formed by gold sluicing operations and is actually not looking that blue today.

We spend the middle part of the afternoon napping, which seems to be becoming a habit we will
have to break when we start working again. Sitting outside in the late afternoon sun drinking a beer
we were able to congratulate ourselves on the days journey and feel superior to all those who
had arrived by car.

The small dining room in the pub was nicely decorated and I had really good ham with salad and
new potatoes. Simon had a steak and salad which was well-done rather than the rare he asked for
but he enjoyed it anyway. Friday was to be our longest days cycling so far as it is 70kms to Clyde and we set off full of the good pub breakfast into a clear morning. The first 40kms just fly past as they are all on sealed roads and mostly downhill, we only take a short break at Omakau for fruit and juice and then keep on. The traffic on SH85 is getting heavier so I persuade Simon to return to the rail trail at Chatto Creek and then I just about lose control of my bike on the loose gravel.

The sun comes out in strength to make the last 30kms hot and dusty but I enjoy the lack of traffic and we are in Clyde and pitching our tent at the Clyde Holiday & Sporting Complex by one o’clock. Next it was time for lunch so we walked down the road to the Post Office Café & Bar and stuffed ourselves with food, beer and wine. During lunch we noticed that they were setting up for a wedding in the garden so we checked if they were open for dinner in the evening. The answer was yes, but we could only get a table for 6:30pm.

Dublin Bay Bike Trip

On the afternoon of 17th October, Simon and I packed our lunch of lentil loaf sandwiches and ugly fruit and headed to Dublin Bay. On the map the red cross marks where I fell and the red circle our lunch place.

Our intention was to ride to Dublin Bay as a circuit. We headed out from the house and along Beacon Point Road as far as the fishermans access track at Penrith Park. A strong head wind from the lake and our morning Karate class meant that we were tired even by this small amount of road riding. Joining the lakeside track from Bremner Bay to the Outlet we pedalled along, getting stuck as usual in the sand and arrived hot and sweaty at the Outlet Motor Camp feeling as though we were being chased along the lake shore by the white capped waves of Lake Wanaka.

We had seen no other walkers or cyclists along the path so far but we passed a couple of walkers as we took the track from the Outlet to Albert Town. The track is narrower, undulating and sometimes precipitous and I managed to fall off my bike on a steep path. Luckily I only fell on my knees on the path rather than over the edge into the lake and a passing walker checked that I was okay. Simon and I had both taken our walkie-talkies so I was able to summon first aid. Sadly the first aid kit was at home but he washed the dirt out of the grazes for me. This picture taken at lunch time shows the graze on my right knee.

Once we had got to the end of the track it was back on the road for the ride through Albert Town and over the bridge towards Hawea. The bridge is just a one way bridge so we had the fun of trying to figure out if the oncoming traffic was really going to give way to us as cyclists even though the northbound traffic always has right of way on that bridge. After the bridge we only had a couple more miles on SH6 until the turn off onto Dublin Bay Road and back into our customary head wind.

It felt like uphill all the way. As we were cycling up the flow of the Clutha River to the lake I guess it actually was uphill. When we got to the lake we were almost the only people there. There was just one car parked down by the lake and the occupants were nowhere to be seen. We pedalled round the lakeside track for a short way until we found a good lunch spot. Unfortunately we could not find a place out of the wind and the temperature served as a reminder that it is not summer here yet at all.

Once our lunch was finished we were so cold that we had to start cycling again just to warm up but were too tired and hurt to do the loop track around the north side of the outlet and so we rode back past the farms and livestock of Dublin Bay Road to SH6 and then though Albert Town. After Albert Town we turned into Mount Iron Road and then headed home via Aubrey Road and Totara Terrace.

Wellington to Auckland Trip

It is early afternoon before we leave Paul's house in Stokes Valley and start our journey north. Driving over to Plimmerton we pass a recent head on collision at Pauatahanui which is a grim reminder of how bad some driving is as it is on a straight road and probably the result of bad overtaking. As a gentle start to the journey we decide to spend our first night at Waitarere beach. When I was a child our next door neighbours had a bach at Waitarere and Karen went there at least once as she was Tanya’s best friend. I was always very jealous of her going to this exotic and exciting holiday venue and I finally get to see this marvellous beach.

There is a howling gale when we arrive and a short walk on the beach is all the exfoliation that we can handle. Once we satisfy ourselves that the tent is not going to blow away we head for the kitchen and dinner. The campground is made up mostly of caravans that are on site permanently, some of which are attached to strange little buildings. While we are eating we chat to a man who is cooking steaks and sausages for his family. He recommends travelling north via Wanganui, where he is from, so I decide that we should. He also gives us some delicious squid that he has marinated and then cooked. After dinner we watch Shortland Street as Simon has not seen it since before Christmas and is missing it dreadfully.
In the morning we are up and off early. The wind has reduced but it is still not sunny. After
driving to Wanganui we stop to get some maps and stuff for the Whanganui River but the AA
Office and the DOC Office are not open weekends. The Wanganui Information Office has bro-
chures on Warkworth and Taupo which will be useful in a few days, but only a single page pho-
tocopy on the attractions and walks up the Whanganui River.

As we drive up the Whanganui River the clouds close in and then the rain starts. The drive is very
beautiful but there is nowhere to stop for food so by the time we get to Raetihi we are getting hungry. I have a restaurant guide which recommends a café in Ohakune so we drive over there but it is closed and the only other likely place does not have anything I want to eat and is closing in 20 minutes anyway. We decide to pick up some stuff from the New World and then eat in the car. Once we have eaten we start to feel more human and decide to drive to Taumarunui tonight.

The campground in Taumarunui is good and we have a lie in the sun at last and then a quiet dinner. In the morning we decide that we are really keen to get to Auckland so load up the car and head north again.

We drive to Auckland after breakfast and try to stay at the YHA there, but the first availability they have is in two weeks so we stay at the Remuera Camp Ground instead. Lunch at a local restaurant is relaxing and we rest in the sun reading brochures for what is happening in Auckland. A swim in the campground pool and then a pizza dinner finish the day.

Simon’s birthday dawns grey and I manage to hurt my back trying to wrest one of the boxes from the car. Our first visit is to One Tree Hill which has no tree any more but still has the Maori Memorial and we get a good view of Auckland south and north, and take a picture of the Sky Tower which is our next stop.

At the Sky Tower we take the lift to the main observation deck and the view is amazing but also terrifying as I am scared of heights. Simon loves it and goes up to the smaller observation deck several floors up. Part of the observation deck has a glass floor so that you can look straight down, including into the rooftop pool of the hotel below.

Next stop for us is Kelly Tarlton's Antarctic Encounter and Underwater World which is a large aquarium where the fish are in huge tanks and you walk through tubes set in the bottom. The sharks were good, but not as good as the rays, some of which were more than two metres long. Afterwards we drive to Mission Bay and sit and at cake by the beach at Kohimarama Bay. Next we head back into town for a wander up Queen Street and then a visit to Victoria Park Market where we don’t buy anything. As we do not know where things are in Auckland we head back to the base of the Sky Tower for lunch and then spend the afternoon visiting the Auckland Art Gallery. The weather has not been great to day and the wind is picking up now. A relaxing dinner in a nice Italian restaurant on Remuera Road finishes our Auckland visit. Tomorrow we will head north again.

Auckland to Cape Reinga and back

The hot springs at Waiwera are our destination for the day. The campground is small and right on the beach giving a great view of an island in the bay and also back to Whangaparaoa. The springs are fed into a large pool complex with several waterslides, but the facilities are run down. We have a good soak anyway and it feels as though it is helping my back, but I may have to try and find an Osteopath in Warkworth tomorrow.

The day starts sunny and warm and we start north again, but it rains when we have only been on the road five minutes. We stop at the honey centre and then go into Warkworth and find that the osteopath is very busy so I make an appointment with a physiotherapist. Lunch at the Arts Café and then the appointment, apparently it is nothing serious and can be fixed by some different stretching.

I call Ruth, my old friend from school, and let her know that we are on our way to visit. Ruth, her husband Don, and their three children Meredith, Trent and Xanthe have a beautiful house and farm at Goldsworthy Bay which is near Snells Beach. They have amazing views of Kawau Island and the other islands. The farmhouse is new and they have built to make the most of the view and the light. Dinner is hamburgers with homemade bread rolls and loads of salad and then a walk around the farm with the farm dog Pat and down to Scandretts Bay. In the morning Ruth is occupied with getting Meredith to school and Trent to kindergarten. We drop the Terrano into the garage for a service and go out for the day with Ruth and Xanthe.

First we look at the million dollar beaches at Omaha and then for a long walk in Tawharanui Regional Park and then to Morris and James to look at the pottery and have lunch. Then we go back to the house where Don has collected Trent and they are out on the farm. We sit in the sun and then collect the car and go for a swim with the kids, Ruth makes a roast chicken for tea and then we watch Shortland Street. This is the second night in a row where we have had access to TV so Simon is getting spoilt.

In the morning we leave and go up to the Goat Island Marine reserve snorkelling until we are scared back to land by the giant jellyfish. We want to start moving further north so lunchtime finds us hot and tired at Reva’s in Whangarei. After lunch we head north again to Oakura. The camp ground at Oakura is beautiful and so is the beach. We spend our time swimming and snorkelling before a salad dinner.

In two months time we will be packing to go home, but today we are off to Russell in the Bay of Islands. We get there before lunchtime and take an afternoon trip on the Excitor on a tour of the bays and out to the Hole in the Rock on Motukokako Island. We see a couple of dolphins on the way back so maybe Simon is not doing his usual job of scaring off all the wildlife. After we get back to Russell we just pitch our tent at the camp ground and lie in the sun for the rest of the afternoon.

In the morning we decide to have a quiet day and after breakfast we walk to Long Beach and to swim and laze in the sun until a need for lunch drives us back to the shops of Russell. We spend a quiet afternoon napping at the camp ground and then smarten ourselves up for a lovely dinner at the Gables which has a beautiful view over the water.

This morning we have a bad start as we are booked on a dolphin swimming trip but are late and are leaving the campground when we should be at the boat. We get onto the boat which is late any way and go out hunting for dolphins, don’t find any but find large pod of what might be either pseudo-Orcas or pilot whales. We take loads of pictures but are not allowed to swim with them as they are not gentle like dolphins. We have arranged to be dropped off afterwards at Otehei Bay on Urupukapuka Island for the afternoon. We have lunch at the rather disappointing café and then rent a kayak to go off snorkelling. The rain starts in with a vengeance and keeps increasing as we get to the next bay. Then the wind picks up and it starts to feel like Doubtful Sound again so we head back to Otehei Bay and return the kayak and huddle, wet in the café for the next two hours until the boat gets there. By the time we get back to Russell the weather is clearing and it is a beautiful evening.

We have to get up early this morning as there are UK calls to be made regarding our house and these need to be done in UK office hours. We are sat in the car in the camp ground with the laptop and mobile phones before it is even light. After that start we are on the road fairly early and get the car ferry from Omata to Opua. We pass through Paihia and I think we made the right choice to stay in Russell as it is a lot less developed. We drive to Waitangi but rain threatens again and I am feeling unwell and disinterested at this point. We stop for lunch at Mangonui at the Waterfront Café which is a beautiful little spot. We stop in Kaitaia for groceries and then go to the start of ninety mile beach at Ahipara, planning to stay there but I hate the motels that we look at and the others have no vacancy so we come back to Awanui and the Norfolk Motel so that I can have a proper bed tonight. In the morning we spend what seems like hours just trying to download our email at the motel but eventually it seems okay and we are ready to leave. The morning is scorching by the time we get into the car and are ready to be away. We drive up towards Cape Reinga and go for a walk at Te Paki stream through the massive sand dunes out to ninety mile beach. We don’t get quite to the sea as we have taken a route across the dunes which leaves a large swamp between us and the beach so we just look at the surf and retrace our steps.

Next we go back via Waitiki Landing to Kapowairua to camp for the night. There are no envelopes at the DOC board for putting the camp site fees in so we have just stuck them into the box. We sit down and have lunch but after lunch Simon decides that he does not really want to be here so we get back in the car and go to Cape Reinga. There are loads of other people visiting this spot and we dutifully photograph the lighthouse and the cape and famous Pohutukawa tree and then start our journey south. We feel as though we have rushed to get to this point north and it is a bit anticlimactic. We head south towards Kaitaia stopping for the night at the camp ground at Waipapakauri Beach. We have a nice dinner and then sit in their bar talking to another couple and drinking beer. Simon and I drink too much beer and in our clumsy haste to get into the tent together I split my lip on the torch Simon is holding. Needless to say this takes days to heal.

I awake on Waitangi Day with a hangover and we eat a subdued breakfast before driving south. We take the vehicle ferry across Hokianga Harbour from Kohukohu to Rawene and go to the Boatshed Café for lunch. Sadly they forgot to pass our order to the kitchen so we sat for ages before going to check what had happened to our meals. When my smoked chicken panini arrived it had some elderly grilled mushrooms inside and it took some time for me to remove them before eating. Saddened further by lunch we got back in the car and drove to the Waipoua Forest to look at Tane Mahuta, the 4000 year old Kauri tree. The giant Kauri trees are amazing, there are hundreds of people trying to see them and they still manage to look majestic. Next we head to our camp for the night near Trounson Forest.

Another sunny start to the morning and we are heading back towards Auckland. We stop at the Kauri Museum in Matakohe and really enjoy the displays as they have lots of useful information on the Kauri industry. We stop in Warkworth and meet up with Ruth at the Ducks Crossing café. Ruth has Trent and Xanthe with her but Meredith is at school. We leave her to collect Meredith and drive on to hit Auckland for the rush hour.

New Zealand Artist's Tour: Getting There and Traveling around

The hardest part of getting to New Zealand is deciding which route to take. All of the major airlines around the world fly to New Zealand . What you will have to do in some cases is fly via the nation of the airline i.e. Malaysian airlines will take you via Malaysia and that would be Kuala Lumpar. As New Zealand is in the southern most reaches of the Pacific Ocean you are spoilt for choices of where to stay whether you fly , sail or even cruise . The later you are more restricted though . If you are flying then you can fly via Asia or the America's if flying from Europe . If flying via America's then you can either do the obvious and fly through the USA but there is the more imaginative route via Canada and through the Pacific Islands or maybe via a South American country .Flying via Asia there is no limit to the choice of stop overs that you can take that will make the journey that much more interesting , the only real limit being time . Of course if you fly either way there is always the opportunity to do a small excursion via Australia .

If you wish to sail to New Zealand then there are a number of opportunities . One would be to be a part of a crew on a yacht that is sailing to New Zealand from you resident country . Alternately if you fly to the Pacific rim then you might be able to catch a yacht that is sailing to New Zealand but you will have to catch it at the right time of year as the yachts doing a round trip generally want to be in NZ for the summer .
If you want to sail back part of the route , i.e. across the Pacific Ocean then you can catch one of the numerous yachts sailing back north . One word of advice though about sailing apart from the obvious of being sea sick is that you will stand a better chance of being selected as a member of a crew if you have crewed a yacht before and if you have some skills such as navigational or generally sailing .
Once in New Zealand the next problem would be to get around . Your means of transport would be greatly dictated by your budget .

The cheapest but not the most reliable is hitching . There is plenty of scope to hitch in New Zealand but do not expect to get a lift every time and if you want to improve your prospects of getting lift it is advisable to be walking along by the road . I found that I was offered numerous lifts without even having stuck my thumb out . I was told on a number of occasions that the driver would not normally pick up a hitch hiker if they are just sitting beside the road . This is a catch twenty two situation if you have been walking all day and have run out of steam .

The next means of getting around which is quite popular and reasonably cheap is cycling . Bike's in New Zealand are comparable with other parts of the world whether it be price or quality so you could always buy one out there .

The next mode of transport that is not cheap but it gets you to a destination and that is relying on the bus and coach service . The most common one being Newmans or Mount Cook line . These are nation wide coach services that you can book ahead , and even via the Internet . There are other local bus services that are worth taking for their entertainment value . One thing that you will always have is a break/stop of at a cafe .
The next mode of transport would be via a car . These come in two categories , those that are hired or rented and those that are bought . There are car hire specialists in all of the main cities in New Zealand also you can arrange your hired vehicle from your country of origin there is usually a restriction though with hiring and that is you cannot take the vehicle onto a metalled road as it will damage the paint work and heightens that chance of a accident if your not used to driving on these types of roads . If you decide to buy a car whilst in New Zealand then there are a number of things that you need to know that are a legal requirement. One is that you will need to be insured , this is reasonably cheap and comprehensive . We got full comprehensive insurance cover for the year which insured our luggage and window screen and we also got full AA membership which is nothing to be sniffed at , all of this cost us some $185 .Finally on the legally side of life it will be worth getting guide to the highway code . there are a few minor differences with driving in New Zealand , one being that any vehicle turning right into a junction must give way to vehicles coming out and any vehicle turning left into the junction must give way to any vehicle turning right from the opposite direction . As well as this they drive on the left in New Zealand , this may sound like I am stating the obvious but there are numerous accidents involving people who drive on the wrong side of the road and many with fatal results .

Buying the car is not too difficult as there are car dealers in all of the major cities plus car are parked by the side of the road with for sale notices . As well as this you could consider going to a back packers lodge and see if any are for sale . you might be able to get a bargain from somebody who is about to leave the country after their own journey around NZ .

If you buy from a dealer you can be spoilt for choice of vehicle from an elderly but reliable vehicle to a brand new one off the for court . Japanese car are predominant in New Zealand but you can get a British one such a Land Rover or even a German make , such as a BMW

Next you will need a warrant of fitness , this is comparable to the MOT in Britain . If you buy a trailer as well then this will need to have a warrant of fitness .Next is the road tax . When you buy a vehicle the person selling the vehicle has to pay a registration fee but as a buyer you might be asked to contribute or maybe even pay for it yourself by the vender . The cost of fuel in New Zealand is comparable with the prices in Britain and fuel stations are dotted around NZ , even in some of the more remote places .
The comments about cars also applies to motorbikes , one exception being that you might consider taking your own by shipping it out and then arriving just as the motor bike arrives . this has been done a number of times and can be cheaper than actually buying one in the New Zealand .

Finally you might consider trying to walk most of the way when traveling around New Zealand . If you do then there is plenty of scope to do so , if you do you be rewarded with some of the most picturesque views that very few people get to see , the only limit is your imagination and your sense of adventure . One word of warning though if you are going to be adventurous always be safe and check the local weather , it can change very quickly in New Zealand.

New Zealand Artist's Tour: Second visit

Christmas in the Bay of islands

The Second trip I made to New Zealand was very different to my first visit . I traveled around New Zealand with my wife who was at the time my Fiancee , we were not on a shoe string budget and because of this we could afford to buy a car which gave us immense independence, as well as this we got married in New Zealand.

We arrived at the beginning of December in Auckland . We had a stopover in Malaysia - Penang to break up our journey thus alleviating the strain of the long flight. On our arrival in Auckland we stayed with Doug and Betty , ( Wendy's aunt and uncle ) who made us feel very welcome . We stayed for a week in Auckland to get over our jet lag which gave us time to explore some of the sights in Auckland such as the Kelly Tarltons undersea world and the Auckland Museum , if you do go along to the museum visit the Maori culture exhibition as there is the stage show with some marvelous singing , we also visited some old friends .

The weather in the south of New Zealand at the time was not very favorable for traveling so we headed to the tropical north where we could guarantee some warm weather . Our first port of call was Orewa , the Hibiscus coast as it is known just outside Auckland .
From Orewa we caught a coach to Whangarei , here we stayed at the camp site that I had used on my previous visit ,visiting the clock museum , the botanical gardens which has some huge Begonia's and the Whangerei falls .

From Whangarei we moved upto the Bay of Island's and settled in at Russell before the mass Christmas exodus descended on Northland and most notably Russell which seems to be the centre of the New Zealand Christmas break . Having a Christmas in a tropical climate always seems a bit strange if your used to the cold winters of the northern hemisphere but it all added to the experience .At Russell we did as much as possible , visiting the Kelly Tarltons ship wreck museum , Waitangi governors house which is a museum now, the Harruru falls , the boat trip out to the hole in the rock and on Christmas Eve we went out on an organized trip to swim with some dolphins which must be one of the high lights of our time in NZ . This is an excellent experience which should be taken if you are in the area and have the time.

From a week before Christmas the camp site population was building up and on Christmas Eve it was at maximum capacity but it was not intimidating as it might sound as every body was in the Christmas spirit and out to have fun. Christmas day would not have been Christmas day without a swim. The Christmas week flew by and before we knew it New Years Eve was upon us.

This was even more eventful as there was a concert in the local pub, The Duke of Marlborough who had the Commitments playing , we don't know if they were the original group from the film but they sounded convincing enough and just as entertaining, if not more as the music was so loud we could here it from our tent .

We saw the New Year in back at the camp site . The day after new years day we headed back to Auckland, stayed a few days here and then headed south

South to Kaikoura

We took the overnight train to Wellington which seemed to take an eternity but we arrived at Wellington station some what late and had to run up the gang plank to get onto the interisland ferry . The cruise down Queen Charlotte sound was as spectacular as my first visit , arriving in Picton we stayed the night in a camp site and the next day went to Blenheim to buy a car . In Blenheim there is a road that is lined with car dealerships which have cars of varying qualities , styles and of course ages and prices .

We did want a four wheel drive but there were few available so we abandoned that idea and bought a twenty year old Hillman Avenger which we named Rembrandt or Remi . We paid NZ$1800 which seemed pricey for a car of its age but it proved to be money well spent . We got our car insurance from AMI which had an office close by and for NZ$85 we got one years fully comprehensive cover for the car which included our luggage and the window screen as well as free AA membership , such a bargain.

Now we had a car we were free to explore the South island at our leisure without having to rely on the coaches and bus's. Our first port of call was French Pass in the Marlborough sounds which seemed such a long drive and it made me realize how far I had walked the first time I visited this peninsula , we stayed over night but Wendy wanted to move on .

We had a look at the map and could either go right to the West coast or left to the East Coast , on the east coast there is Whale watching at Kaikoura and I had not got to see this part of NZ on my first trip ,our fate was sealed and we opted for Kaikoura .

We drove back to Blenheim and then down the coast to Kaikoura . There was not a camp site here so we move further down to Goose Bay where there is an excellent campsite which was not crowded . The campsite is almost right next to the railway line to Christchurch and across the road is the Pacific Ocean .

At Kaikoura the ocean floor drops away dramatically to the depths of the ocean just a kilometre or so from the shores edge . This attracts an abundance of sea life and food for the local fish population ,this in turn brings in the Whales . The weather proved to be a hindrance , we spent a week waiting for the weather to break in hope to go out and see some whales but it did not We moved on with the intention to return later , alas we never did . Whilst we stayed at Goose bay we got to se a lot of the local area which included walking up Fyfe mountain , visiting the Seal colony and sketching them .

Having spent a week at Kaikoura we traveled south to Christchurch , the main city on south island . There is so much to do here that you will not get it all in in less than a week . we had a look around town ,climbed to the top of the spire of the Cathedral which gave a magnificent view over the city . We visited the botanical garden's which are comparable to Kew Gardens in London . Also there is an excellent museum which has a good natural history section showing the skeleton's of several Moa's , including a ten foot one , as well as a wide selection of insects .As well as this we canoed up the River Avon through the botanical gardens.

A days painting at Mount Cook

On my first visit to New Zealand I was told about Akaroa and how nice it was , as we were but a stones throw from Banks peninsula we decided to make the effort and visit Akaroa .Little did we know how Akaroa would be so eventful for us in the near future . Akaroa harbour is a very pleasant place , the camp site is high upon the hill side giving commanding views of the town and harbour .

The weather was fine at first and I got some painting done . We also went out on the Canterbury Cat,a catamaran that goes out to the mouth of the harbour where the Hectors dolphins swim . These are very rare and the smallest dolphin's in the world which makes it a special treat to see. The weather turned squally and showers blew in from the south and we decided to move onto Timaru.

We drove over the hills to the Canterbury plains and onto Ashburton where we had a nice meal in a pub , very different from my first visit here. From Ashburton we went onto Timaru . Timaru is a typical touristy town with a very good camp site and also a good art gallery with a good selection of watercolours.

From Timaru we went inland to Mackenzie country, stopping off at Fairlie and looked at the museum which has a number of exhibits that are crammed in covering almost every aspect of New Zealand life in the area . From Fairlie we went onto Lake Tekapo. We stayed here for a few days which was glorious weather at first but it started to get blowy , I took this as a challenge and sat down to do a painting in almost gale force winds , this brought to mind the story of Van Gough insisting on painting in blustery winds much to Gogh amazement. On the last night it turned chilly and Wendy insisted that there would be a frost in the morning. We drove out to the petrol station, looking up the lake I saw the mountain's had a dusting of snow on them . This brought home how the weather can change so dramatically in the New Zealand high country and catch people unawares.

Just down the road is Mount Cook which has to be visited, especially if it is not shrouded in cloud . We stayed at the Glenn Tanner camp site , driving upto the old Hermitage to look at Mount Cook which surprisingly enough was not covered in cloud. Wendy wanted to fly over Mount Cook but it seemed to be a bit expensive, we decided to do that from the Westcoast. We spent two days here and got some paintings done as well as some walking.

From Mount Cook we moved on to Omaru via Twizel and Oromana , stopping to look at Lake Avimore. We arrived at Omaru and booked into the campsite next to the domain. Here there is a pleasant domain which has a grotto devoted to JM Barry's Peter Pan .

We spent two days looking at the museum , the art gallery and also got to see the Yellow Eyed Penguins coming in for the evening and followed by what looked like Orca's ( Killer Whales ). We moved on towards Dunedin via Moeraki to see Ray and Ruth who I knew from Queenstown on my previous visit , we said hello and then moved onto Dunedin .

Dunedin has a Scottish appeal to it which bellies this in the architecture and the statue of Robbie Burnes in the City square. Also Billy Connolly was due to perform , we forwent this pleasure due to time and money .

Dunedin has an very good Museum called the settlers museum which also has an Egyptian room , an art gallery , a museum of science . The Botanical gardens were exceptionally pleasant , even in the rain as the rose garden was in full bloom . The rain seemed to have settled in with no let up in sight. A weather forecast of sunshine on the West coast was predicted so we left for Manapouri .

New Zealand Artist's Tour: First visit

South to the Majestic Marlborough Sounds

In 1997 I visited New Zealand for the first time. I flew direct with a ten hour break at Honolulu airport which has a shower, bliss. The whole event of getting to New Zealand was an experience never to be forgotten and never to be repeated.

This first visit was on a shoe string budget which was eked out with NZers benevolence and I am greatly indebted to those that helped me on numerous occasions .

Having arrived in Auckland I was in desperate need of some sleep after a thirty six hour flight and I booked into the Rosanna Guest house at Ponsonby - Auckland. I had arrived on Waitangi weekend which meant that Auckland was quiet and deserted .

I spent the good part of the week in Auckland getting my bearings and sunburnt . Some thing I did not expect but the NZ sun is harsh and unforgiving . One of the places visited was Piha beach just north of Auckland .

I was advised to travel south as quickly as possible before the weather turned , advice I took without hesitation. Catching the overnight train from Auckland to Wellington I arrived in Wellington and boarded the interisland ferry.

The ferry sailing was pleasant and calm. I was not prepared for the splendor of the cruise down Queen Charlotte sound to Picton sailed between the high hills on either side with small communities dotted on the hills and in the bays. I stayed in Picton and then ventured forth on a bus to the West Coast - Westport . The journey took all day traveling through the Buller Gorge and arriving in the evening just as it started to rain.

I stayed in Westport two days doing some painting and sight seeing and then started walking north towards Karamea which was recommended to me as a peaceful place with bush walks and a sub tropical climate.

My legs were barely able to get me to Mokihinui where there is a camp site right on the beach , the amenities are basic but sufficient, so I stayed here to rest and then set off walking over the hills to Karamea.

I ended up getting a lift which was beneficial as I was given sound advice to camp at the domain and not the camp site , even though it looked pleasant enough I took it . A domain in NZ is like a park and in some places you can camp in them .

The Karamea domain was a large field with a block house that had a shower . I spent a week in this nice quiet town that was close to the beach and not far from some bush walks that had some caves as well . It was here that I had my first taste of NZ sand flies and their taste of me , alas not the last may I add , my ankles suffered for my art on a number of occasions.

Over the hills from Okarito to Fox

The next stretch of my tour of South Island was to take me to Hokitika. I traveling back to Westport , onto Greymouth and then to Hokitika. This took most of the day , mainly waiting for bus connections. I arrived in Hokitika and had a busy four days visiting Lake Kenaire , exploring the debris filled beach , Hokitika backs onto the Southern Alp's and trees get washed down from the mountains in severe storm's and washed up on the beach's on the West Coast .

I moved on walking along the road south towards Ross. From here I got a series of lifts until I asked to be dropped at Lake Ianthe . This is a lake that has an iridescent green tint to it when the sun shines on the surface .I camped here for the night then carried on until I reached Lake Wahapo which is just off the road, no amenities but a peaceful place to stay which I found hard to leave. I moved on after a weekend here and then turned off the main highway for Okarito which was recommended to me as a pleasant place to visit .

I stayed at Okarito for four days exploring the local countryside and mixing with some good company. Okarito has a commanding view of the Southern Alp's from the trig point above the small community which is accessible via a bush walk . I moved on from Okarito with the intention of walking to Fox . As far as I understood there were just a few hills to traverse . A few turned into three rather long steep hills and no sign of a lift .

To get over the strenuous tramp to Fox I rested for four days at the camp site . The camp site at Fox is pleasant with majestic views of Fox Glacier and easy access to the face of the glacier and also Lake Matheson .

I caught the bus to Wanaka which is a small town at the head of Lake Wanaka . I spent a few days here and decided that I would walk over the Cardronna range to Queenstown, not an easy fete but worth the trip .

The climb from Wanaka is steady and as you walk between a gully at the top you come out to a view that has Ben Nevis and Lake Wakatipu before you. I chose to stay here for the night and walk into Queenstown the next morning ,at 2000 metres it was cold that night .

The walk down from the Cardronna range the next morning was refreshing, arriving in Queenstown about midday I booked into the Queenstown municipal campsite , a boisterous place that houses some 300 tents . The noise got the better of me after a few days and I moved to a camp site down the road , with its own bar may I add .

New Zealand Artist's Tour: Riverton, Mount Nicholas

Riverton

Riverton is is a small fishing community on south coast of South Island opposite Bluff and Invercargill on the Forveaux Strait. From Riverton you can see Stewart Island in the distance, sitting on the horizon as depicted in the painting below .

Riverton is a quiet town with a camp site and a few shops. The road in either direction from Riverton is a scenic coastal road, not as picturesque as the Catlins though but an enjoyable drive. The weather here can be cold and wet as it blows in from the south from The Antarctic .

Mount Nicholas


Mount Nicholas is a mountain on the edge of Lake Wakatipu. The Mount Nicholas sheep station quay is at the foot of the mountain and the sheep station stretch's from the quay to the Mavora lakes junction , some 45 kilometres away .

My intention was to walk from the quay to to the Mavora lakes which took two days as I took my time admiring the scenery. Also there is a steep climb leading up from this spot to a higher plateau.

The climb is some 800 metres which was not fully indicated on the map I had .The walk is a lonely one as there is no traffic along the road except for some vehicles leaving the sheep station in the evening .

If you feel adventurous I would recommend the walk as the scenery is different from that seen else where in New Zealand. If you are cycling then you should definitely have a go.

The Remarkables

The Remarkables are synonomous with Queenstown but in their own right The Remarkables are an attraction in them selves . They are well known for their Ski fields but in the summer you can still drive to the top for a commanding view of Lake Wakatipu .

To get to the top of the Remarkables you need to take the road out of Queenstown and then turn right as if you are going south to Bluff. There is a turning that leads off into a field. The track will lead up the side of the mountain to the top . The track has a sheer drop and can be hair raising for anybody who does not have a head for heights .

New Zealand Artist's Tour: Milford Sound, Wanaka, Banks Peninsula, Mavora Lakes, West Coast

Milford Sound

Milford Sound is part of the Fiordland national park . It is situated sketch of the coast line looking north from the mouth of Milford sound at the northern end of the Fiordland national park .
Milford Sound is accessible via three ways . By sea , by road which is the most common rout that people take or via the Milford track which comes out at Sand fly point.

At Milford Sound there are two places to stay. The Milford Haven lodge , a five star hotel or the Milford back packers lodge . Also at Milford Haven is a pub a post office and a Cafe. There are two ways to see Milford Sound. One is by the launch that takes you out onto the sound and out to the entrance and the second is by air . There is an airstrip which has regular flights taking off .The main feature of Milford sound is the Mitre Peak , a mile high mountain that rises straight out of the sea.

The one thing that all those visiting Mildoed Sound should be very aware of is how heavy it can rain . You will most probably never come across any thing like it , it is very torrential and the average rain fall is 3 metres per annum.

Wanaka

Wanaka is a small town that is at the head of Lake Wanaka . The town itself is a popular holiday spot with the holiday makers and also tourist s staying at the extensive camp site . This is a cosy place to stay with marvelous views of the lake and also the surrounding mountains .

Banks Peninsula

The Banks Peninsula is a large peninsula that has a number of extinct volcanoes on it .

The road leading to the Banks Peninsula goes along birdlings flat and then it steadily climbs up into the volcanic rim of Akaroa Harbour. Dotted around the rim are a number of communities , the most prominent is Akaroa which is at the far end of the road .

Akaroa used to be a French colony , the only one that managed to establish itself in New Zealand . From Akaroa you can reach other parts of the peninsula via the mountain road . This leads out of the volcanic rim of the Akaroa harbour and to the other harbours and bays , such a Okaines bay and Pidgeon bay . There are plenty of walks in the area some of the roads are not ideal for most cars though .

For the artist there is a wealth of material for painting, what ever subject that may inspire you . There are coastal scenes , mountains as well as some interesting buildings that deserve attention as the main subject or will compliment the composition. There is also a four star hotel next to the lake . Wanaka itself boasts a very good Tex Mex restaurant called Te Kano. There is also a very good bakers that is worth a visit .

Just out side Wanaka is a Maze that also has a set of puzzles for you to mull over in the cafe . A good days recreation to be had here by all of the family. To the South of Wanaka there is an airstrip where you can take a flight over the Mount Aspiring national park .

Mavora Lakes

The Mavora Lakes are part of the Green Stone national park which is situated some 45 kilometres south of Lake Wakatipu and 30 kilometres north of the main highway from Dunedin to Te Anau. There are two lake's , North and South ,the north being the larger one of the two .

The lakes are set in a valley which has the Greenstone mountains at the head . The Greenstone mountains have a track that leads into them which you can take but be prepared for foul weather and sufficient provisions .

The Lakes are ideal for fly fishing as there is a good stock of trout in the lakes.There is a camp site which is very basic so you either have to rough it or supply your own. The only facility supplied is a long drop, a WC. For the artist there are plenty of opportunities to paint mountain scenes with the changing clouds and weather .

North Mavora lake seen from the path that leads along be side the lake and upto the Greenstone Mountains .

Lake Wakatipu

Lake Wakatipu is synonymous with Queenstown , which is the main community on the lake. There are others dotted around the lake, these are looking towards Mt Nicholas mostly sheep stations which are only accessible by tracks and long walks or via boat such as the SS Earnslaw which is named after the mountain at the head of the lake. The Earnslaw cruises up the lake daily to Mount Nicholas sheep station.

The lake itself is in the shape of a very large S .At the other end of the lake is Kingston where there is the train station and the preserved steam train, "the Kingston Flyer". There are various view points around the lake all giving breath taking views, some more accessible than others.

West Coast

Westcoast is a name used in New Zealand to refer to the Westcoast of South Island . This slim strip of coastal land runs from just north of Karamea to the Haast Pass . The West Coast is hilly and mountainous, covered in bush with numerous rivers running out into the Tasman Sea .

There are a number of tracks and bush walks on the West Coast ranging from the sedate and leisurely to the more difficult and challenging , only to be tackled by the experienced or with a guide. There are also the walks upon the Glaciers at Fox and Franz Josef which are led by a guide .

The coast line on the West Coast is rugged with cliffs dropping away into the surf with numerous rocks jutting out of the sea. Very picturesque for the artist but an absolute danger for the Mariner . The West Coast is doted with countless bays . One in particular is Bruce Bay where there are large lumps of opaque quartz on the beach.

Travelling down the West coast is relatively easy . From Karamea to the Haast Pass and over to Wanaka you can travel by bus . This is the easiest way to get from the top to the far south .

The West Coast rises very dramatically from the coast upto the Southern Alps . All along the coast there are views with mountain back drops. As well as the mountains there are numerous lakes that are ideal for camping by either over night or for several days . The main towns on the West Coast are Westport , Greymouth , Hokitica , Franz Josef and Fox .There are smaller towns such as Ross , Okarito and Karamea.

After Fox there is little habitation . If you intend walking along the road south beyond Fox ensure you have enough provisions .There are a number of restaurants and cafes but you might just be tempted to stop off by a lake .

Westland is also refered to as Wetland , it lives upto this title and it can get extremely wet if you are unfortunate . If you do have the luck with the weather you can bask in the sub tropical sunshine as you stand infront of Franz Josef or Fox Glacier admiring the scenery.

The West Coast is famous for its gold fields. There are a number of places where you can learn to pan for gold. You pay a nominal fee and you get a pan of gold barring rock to pan. The best one to visit is at Ross where there is a pub opposite the tourist hut.

New Zealand Artist's Tour: Tekapo, Mount Cook, Lake Manapouri and the Monument, Queenstown

Tekapo

Tekapo is virtually in the middle of South island . Tekapo takes it's name from the lake it resides by . The area around Tekapo is known as McKenzie country , so called after a famous shepherd who opened up the area. Lake Tekapo is a natural glacial lake that has an iridecent tourqeouse glow to it . This is caused by the morain sediment in the water.

The land around Tekapo is used predominently to raise sheep, which it is very suited for . Tekapo it self is at the head of the lake which is a very small community with a few shops , a hostel and a camp site. At the other end of the lake there are the Southern alps. There are a number of walks in the area that give panoramic views .

The Church of our Good Shepherd is in rememberence of the Shepherd dogs that work on the Sheep stations . The church is small and there is a window behind the alter that gives a full view of Lake Tekapo .

Mount Cook

Mount Cook is one of the most famous land marks of the world . It is synonymous with New Zealand and every NZer identifies with it . Mount Cook is at the heart of the Mount Cook national park which is accessible from two directions . Either from the West Coast via the Copland track or along the 35 kilometre road leading upto the Mount Cook Hermitage .

If you walk over the Copland track you will walk into the Hooker valley opposite Mount Cook. Traveling up from the main highway there is a panoramic view of Mount Cook.

There are three places you can stay in the Mount Cook national park. Either in the Mount Cook Hermitage hotel which is a five star hotel. You can camp at the site of the old hermitage at the foot of Mount Sefton, a camping ticket is needed before you pitch your tent and this can be obtained at the Mount Cook advice centre or you can camp at the Glenn Tanner camp site which is half way up the road to Mount Cook and gives commanding views of Mount Cook on a clear day.

The later is near the airport where you can take a flight in a small aircrsft up the Tasman Glacier and around Mount Cook for a breath taking flight.Dont forget your camera and spare film .

There is a lot to see and do in the Mount Cook national park . For the day visitor there are a number of short tracks which give you the opportunity to take in the views . There is the visitors centre which gives a short talk and slide show on the history of rock climbing in and around Mount Cook . Also there are some ideallic views of the surrounding area for the artist who wants to make a quick sketch . For those that wish to stay longer there are a number of longer walks . One up the Hookers Valley , another up to the Seally Tarns and also the walk upto the Tasman Glacier .

For those more adventurous there is plenty of opportunity to climb in the area . As well as all of this you can also take the previously mentioned scenic flights from the Glen Tanner air strip .

If you have the time I would recommend you stay at least four days in the area. One thing to bare in mind when you are at the Hermitage , the altitude is 1,000 metres. You should always be prepared for the weather to turn cold or even snowy; even in summer.

For a basic days walking you need a good pair of boots , this may seem obvious but I have seen a woman in high heels walking up the Tasman valley.For the artist there is a lot of inspiration in the area, especially if you paint mountains or you want to try your hand at them. If you are the more adventurous then you can climb up to higher altitudes and do some painting from there . What ever you do ,always have your sketch book at the ready .

For every body else make sure you have sufficient film for your camera , I am sure you will regret it if you dont . If you are visiting New Zealand and your itinerary is flexible enough it might be worth considering being at Moutn Cook for a full moon . It is spectacular at night with the the moon light shining off the snowy peaks . It is an opportunity to take some award winning photo's

Manapouri

Lake Manapouri is about 12 kilometres south of Te Anau. As you would expect , Manapouri is set next to Lake Manapouri which is a very picturesque and tranquil with mountains as a back drop in every direction .


Lake Manapouri and the Monument

There are a number of private houses in Manapouri, some of which are holiday homes. Beside the lake there is the camp site, a hotel, a general store and a craft shop. The Lake itself is one of the deepest in New Zealand even though it does not have a very large surface area.

The geography of the area lends itself to the artist as there are a number of unusual features such as the Monument in the painting above . A large rock that thrusts out of the bush like a cenotaph. It is possible to climb to the top of the Monument but only recommended for those with climbing experience .

To venture across the Lake and on any excursion onto the lake you need to go to Pearl Harbour .This is a small picturesque harbour where you can catch the launch for the tour of Doubtful Sound. If you venture across to the opposite bank at Pearl Harbour you can take a number of walks in the bush .

There is a cabin that you can use but be warned the area is infested with sand flies so you will need a good supply of insect repellent.

There is good fishing in the lake and as previously mentioned you can take a guided tour to Doubtful Sound which takes in the power station as well . This is a day trip and well worth the journey and time. The boat ride around Doubtful sound takes in most of the sound giving you a glimpse of what it must have been like for those first explorers who arrived in this area . It is totally unspoiled, except for the quay and is very peaceful.


Queenstown

Queenstown is the action centre of South Island and New Zealand . If you want adrenaline this is the place to come . If you want something a bit more sedate then again Queenstown can cater for you.

The activities are in some cases world famous . The one that every body knows is bungy jumping . Queenstown was the first place to have a bungy jump which is run by A.J. Hackett . There is bungy jumping just outside Queenstown on the main road leading to Wanaka . The bungy jumping is done from abridge which you can walk onto and stand next to those who are risking life and limb 60 metres below . Other activities in Queenstown include Paragliding from the Skyline Cage on top of Ben Lomand , Jetboating down the Shotover river , Aerobatics , and in winter skiing either on the Remarkables or Cardrona ski fields .

The more sedate activities are wide and varied . You can take a cruise on the SS Earnslaw to the Mount Nicholas sheep station or in the evening around the lake and down the Frankton Arm of Lake Wakatipu , gondola riding upto the Skyline cafe to get a majestic view of Lake Wakatipu and watch the Paragliders . There is the bowls club in the botanical gardens and of course there is the botanical gardens themselves that has a splendid rose Garden . Set in the rose Garden is a commemorative stone dedicated to Captain Scott .

Queenstown itself has a selection of shops to get your winter wear and also any provisions as well as that all important New Zealand souvenirs .

Lake Wakatipu seen from the Wakatipu Lodge bar

There are numerous places to eat and you will be very spoilt for choice if you wish to eat out. There are a number of bars , restaurants, cafes and tea shops. There is a wide selection of places to stay in Queenstown .Ranging from five star hotels to camp sites . The main Motorcamp site gets very packed and not for those who prefer it quiet . There is also the Wakatipu lodge which is highly recommended as it has a bar . There is also a back packers lodge , the limit would be what you can afford. If you want to go further afield there are a number of things that you can do in the area. Drive upto the top of the Remarkables , visit Arrowtown and see what New Zealand looked like during the gold rush years . There are a number of pleasant drives that you can take around the lake but dont expect the road to be smooth. Also you can go out to the Cardrona range .

All together the choice in Queenstown is almost limitless , you just need the budget and the time . If you really need to unwind you can always feed the swarms of ducks . For the Artist in Queenstown there is so much that should inspire you and there is so much material you will not be able to put your sketch book down . If you are painting out doors you can also expect an audience who will take an active interest in what you are doing .

New Zealand Artist's Tour: Marlborough Sounds, Karamea, Okarito, Fox Glacier

Marlborough Sounds

The Marlborough Sounds are a series of inlets and islands at the northeast end of South Island . The Marlborough Sounds are the main point of access to South Island if you are traveling by ferry from North Island and Picton is the main terminal .

There are a two roads leading off from the main highway between Nelson and Picton into the Marlborough Sounds One for Kenepuru Sound and one for French Pass.

There are a number of places you can camp in the sounds but there are no amenities except at French pass where there is a toilet and a cold shower .

If you plan to explore the Sounds extensively you would be well advised to stock up well with food as there is very little opportunity to buy any except at French Pass. The easiest way to explore the Marlborough Sounds is to travel by water,either by yacht or canoe. The hardest way is to walk around the coast line . The later is very rewarding and there are magnificent views to be seen from the top of the ridges above the Sounds.

Karamea

Karamea is almost at the end of the road leading north from Westport along the westcoast .The journey is some 100 kilometres with flat straight road until you reach Mohakinui then the road rises steeply and meander's over a number of hills . The road is very quiet so there is very little danger from traffic if you decide to walk to Karamea.

Okarito

Okarito is about ten kilometres of the main highway . The junction for Okarito at the Forks is between Franz Josef and Lake Wahapo and easy to miss . The journey is worth the effort even if you are walking and you could easily spend a few days here to appreciate the area .

The town of Okarito is small and spread out along a single road which backs onto the beach and the campsite . The camp site has basic amenities which consists of a toilet and a cold shower . The payment for the camp site is via an honesty box .There are commanding views of the Southern alps from the camp site which is directly on the beach .The camp site sits directly on the beach which is littered with drift wood so there is no shortage fire wood .

For more majestic views of the Southern Alps there is the Trig Point above Okarito which gives a panoramic view of the mountains with a plaque pointing out the various mountains . The track upto the observation deck passes through bush which has benches on the way up for those that feel they need a rest . Even though the climb is not too strenuous it is worth taking your time to appreciate the scenery and flora .

Okarito is home of Keri Hulme the author of the Bone People , a Booker award winning book ( 1985 ) which is based on life in and around Okarito . Donavons store is the name above the door but it is not open any more and there is no means to buy food except to travel into Franz Josef if you are walking this can be a bind as Franz is some fifteen kilometres away. The artist has a wealth of material here and be prepared to do a number of sketchs or even painting's .

Karamea itself is a very quiet town with a general store , grocers and a pub. There are a few houses and considering how small Karamea is it also has a Plunket room, (For those not aware ,a Plunket room is somewhere for mothers to have some privacy with their children).

The main attractions for Karamea is the fishing, both beach and trout fishing, bush walks where there is the opportunity to see a variety of New Zealand birds such as the Black Robin and Fantails . There is a bush walk that leads to some caves as well as a challenging walk up the Karamea Gorge to stormy ridge.

As well as the walks in the Karamea bush there is the Honey Comb caves just 5 kilometres up the road from Karamea where you can take a boat into the caves.

Karamea is an ideal place to either start or end the Heaphy track which leads over to the north coast of south island at Collingwood. The accommodation in Karamea is a bit limited but sufficient. There is the Karamea camp site just before you come into the town proper before the bridge. In Karamea itself there is the Domain which has some showers in the block house.

For the artist there is the Gorge which is challenge to paint, capturing the drama of the white water washing over the bolders whilst the sandflies chew at you , dont expect any mercy. There is also the coast line plus a number of old west coast buildings, some which have seen better days.

Fox

Fox and Fox Glaciers are about half way along the west coast of South Island. Fox is a small town with a hotel, a store, post office, a camp site and last but not least a tourist information office. From Fox you can catch a helicopter ride up to the Glacier and around the mountains .

There is considerable amount to see and do in and around the area . There is Lake Matheson just a few kilometres down the road which is a must if you are in the area and have time . If you intend staying in the area for any length of time it is worth getting up early to catch the lake as the sun rises .

There is a viewing point above the glacier where you get a majestic view of the valley and the glacier which is a good starting point to appreciate the geography .

After this you can then walk upto the face of the glacier . Also you can take a organised walk on the glacier with a guide. There is a choice of accommodation at Fox. The hotel which is very good and welcoming,the Camp site which is of a high standard with full facilities for cooking and washing.

There are power points for camper vans to connect to, there are also some basic but comfortable cabins and there is the area for the tents which has a magnificent view of the glacier and South Alps as illustrated on the right. For the artist there is a wealth of material to keep you busy either for sketching or producing the finished article .

From Fox you can take a bus south to the start of the Copland track that leads over into the Mount Cook National park . Fox is the ideal resting place prior to starting the track or after having finished where you can chill out and have a well deserved hot shower .

Franz Josef Glaciers

Franz Josef is a small community on the west coast that takes its name from the Glacier which is several kilometers off the main highway. Franz as it is so commonly referred to has a small promenade of shops, cafes and vendors for flights around the southern alps in either Helicopters and planes .

There is an information centre that has regular lectures on the local geology and glaciers and is very recommended. There is a camp site which has very comfortable rooms which are ideal after a long day walking to and from the glacier .

Franz Josef is an ideal base to visit other places such as Okarito ,Fox and Lake Matheson .In the Franz area there are a number of short walks that you can take which lead across gorges and up mountains. There is a long swing bridge that is a challenge for those who do not have a head for heights.

As well as doing the walks you can take a flight over Mount Cook and into the Glacier valleys. The area itself is very picturesque and there are lots of opportunities for the artist to get numerous sketches and paintings done. The weather in the area can be a bit unpredictable and the cloud can come down shrouding the mountain tops

New Zealand Artist's Tour: Coromandel, Spirits bay, Russell, Maunganui, Whakatane

Coromandel

The Coromandel is a peninsula on the east coast of north island. It is about a two hours drive from Auckland and is a weekend retreat for a lot of Aucklanders. The Coromandel Peninsula is hilly and covered in bush along its centre. The coast line has numerous sandy beaches with bush running down to them.

There are numerous places that you can stay, one is Long Bay where there is a small caravan site just outside Coromandel itself. There is also a camp site just outside Thames which has lodges for those who are adverse to getting wet and cold.

To the far north there is Port Jackson. This is a picnic spot with some toilets but it is very basic but worth the trip if you have time. The bay is very scenic with a view of the Great Barrier island. The weather in the Coromandel Peninsula can be termed as wet , not as wet as Fiordland but be prepared. If you feel like some luxurious therapy whilst on the Coromandel Peninsula it is highly recommended that you visit Miranda Springs. Miranda Springs is a thermal swimming pool that is guaranteed to help take all of those aches and pains away. As well as the swimming pool there are thermal baths that are hot which will leave you feeling revived and refreshed ready for your next leg of your journey.

Spirits bay

Spirits bay is at the far north of New Zealand. It is almost the farthest point to the north. The farthest point being further along the coast which is Maori land and is sacred. Spirits Bay is so named because Maori legend say's that the Spirits travel the length of New Zealand and then leave this point for the after life.

Spirits bay can be accessed from the junction at Waitiki landing on the road towards Cape Rienga . The road leads off to the right and winds for upto some 12 kilometres until you descend into the bay. From Spirits Bay you can see Cape Reinga, so named after one of those that sailed with Van Deimen .

At Cape Reinga you can see the pacific Ocean and the Tasman sea merging as the tides role into the shore . The waves run diagonally across each other as they merge .The bay itself is a camp site and the summer break see's a throng of campers at the site . I the winter the site is desolate and is a lonely place for any campers . In winter the weather is warm , even when it is raining as the winds blow form the north from the tropic of Capricorn and the equator. If you intend staying at Spirits bay take sufficient supplies as there are no means to buy any .

Russell

You could be mistaken in believing that Russell has always been peaceful and tranquil. Russell was at one time the capital of New Zealand but with trouble erupting periodically in Northland after repeated attacks from the Maori's the capital was moved to Auckland. As well as trouble from the Maori's Russell also had the unenviable title as the cesspit of the Pacific. It was a haven for criminals escaping justice as well as a whaling station.

Even though Russell is more peaceful now there is one time of the year that Russell becomes a haven for what appears to be absolute bedlum. At Christmas it seems that half of Auckland descends on Russell and the large camp site is absolutely packed with those taking their Christmas break .

For the rest of the year Russell is relatively quiet . Russell town itself has a number of shops , an art gallery - "Peter Arnolds gallery " which begs to be visited where you can pick up a quality print of one of Peter Arnold's fine drawing's either in monochrome or hand tinted. There is the museum, a store ,a crazy golf course , a pub "The Duke of Marlborough" which should not be missed either for it's fine food or night life and the cafe on the sea front which is ideal from watching the sun set.

There are some historical buildings such as the Church and the old custom house. From Russell as well as Paihia you can get the boat that will take you out on the Cream trip , the trip around the Bay of Islands which visits the different islands and bays and then out to the Hole in the Rock. For those who are more adventurous you can swim with he Dolphins out in the Bay.

If you need to visit the other areas in the bay of Islands you can get a ferry to Piahia where you can do some shopping, eat out ,visit Waitangi or hire a boat to take you out to catch a Marlin. At Christmas there is the tall boat race around the Bay of Islands where the boats sail out from Russell. This is best seen from flag staff hill where you can walk up above Russell for a commanding view of the whole Bay. This view should not be missed at sunset which is very spectacular.

After the summer the yachts that congregate in Russell and the Bay of Islands set off north to warmer climes. If you have any nautical training or experience you can pick up a lift to the Pacific island's and even Hawaii.

Maunganui

Mount Maunganui is on the east coast of North Island In the Bay of Plenty. It is highly regarded for its surf and long sandy beaches . There is a camp site right on the beach itself with full facilities. Also a caravan site close by and a hotel facing the beach

The coast line facing south is a long sweeping beach that stretches for some 20 kilometres . At the head of this beach is the Mount which is an old Pa that gives scenic views both during the day and at night from the top , there is a path leading to the top .

Maunganui itself is a small town with a good selection of shops and places to eat. You will not go hungry. If you wish to explore further afield travel in the area you can visit Tauranga where there is a wider selection of shops for you to explore and also further around the Bay of Plenty there is Whakatane.

Whakatane

Whakatane is a natural harbour that is on the Bay of Plenty at the other end of the long beach that stretches from Mount Maunganui . Whakatane is a small town that has a selection of shops , it is pleasant but there is little to do in the town itself . But having said that it is an ideal place to use as a base and drive out to some of the thermal areas such Tiki Teri and some of the lakes around that area such as Lake Okotaina. There is a good camp site that can be prone to flooding on a very wet day .

If you want to do any painting here there are some pleasant views of the harbour the local architecture and the coast line , other than that you would have trouble finding material.